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Southwest Couloir
3rd YDS 1- French 1 Ewbanks I UIAA 1 ZA M 1a British Mod. Snow
Avg: 2.6 from 138
votes
Routes in Middle Teton
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Beyer South Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bonney's Pinnacle - East Face & South Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chouinard Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow |
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Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow |
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Dike Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow |
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Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow |
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Middle Finger, Northwall, Taylor, Inge's/Mega T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1 |
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Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow |
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North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 |
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Pinocchio Pinnacle - East Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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South Chimney Finish of Southeast (Buckingham) Ridge of Middle Teton T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 4000 ft (1212 m), Grade II |
| FA: | H. Morris and I. Christensen, 1927 |
| Page Views: | 20,320 total · 94/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Mar 19, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This is the standard route on the Middle Teton. From the Meadows, head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. Going up this fork is more time consuming than the north fork due to a lack of a (decent) trail. Climb all the way to the saddle between the Middle and South Tetons (do not branch off right early).
The couloir should now be obvious on the left (west) side of the ridge leading to the summit. If snow-filled, ice axe and crampons will be needed. It seems, however, that this couloir melts out relatively rapidly. I remember it becomes quite narrow towards the top, and is a bowling alley if anyone is above you. Helmets recommended! The couloir tops out very near the summit.
The couloir should now be obvious on the left (west) side of the ridge leading to the summit. If snow-filled, ice axe and crampons will be needed. It seems, however, that this couloir melts out relatively rapidly. I remember it becomes quite narrow towards the top, and is a bowling alley if anyone is above you. Helmets recommended! The couloir tops out very near the summit.
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