Middle Teton

Middle Teton via Garnet Canyon

Description 

The Middle Teton is the 3rd highest peak in the Teton Range, and a familiar sight to all who climb the Grand Teton from Garnet Canyon. Although easier to climb than the Grand Teton, it sees far fewer ascents. One difficulty is that most routes on the Middle Teton are approached from the east up Garnet Canyon, so camp sites are by reservation and almost always full. One-day ascents are popular for this reason, although they involve 6000 feet of elevation gain.

Getting There 

The standard approach begins as for the Grand Teton, from the Lupine Meadows parking lot.

The Classics

Featured Route For Middle Teton

Buckingham (SE) Ridge 5.7  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton

From the Meadows head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. The Buckingham Ridge climbs the buttress forming the left side of the Ellingwood Couloir (see location below). This buttress is broad and many variations are possible.The standard route follows the right edge of the buttress for 4 pitches to a notch. Here the buttress is narrower and your options are fewer. From a belay on chockstones, climb the face of a tower. Continue upward 3 or 4...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Middle Teton Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail photo: Chris...	Somewhere on the Middle Teton 3 Aug 2007 (if anyon...	BETA PHOTO: Campsite at South Fork of Garnet Canyon... which l...
Sunrise on the Middle Teton.	The Meadows in Winter	Middle Teton from the meadows
Middle Teton, north side	Middle Teton from the Upper Saddle	Dike Pinnacle, and Garnet Canyon