Mountain Project: Climbing Grand Teton National Park

Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Mar 6, 2006
Elevation: 13,770 feet
Views: 90,327 page views

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Description

From moderate, sunny cruisers to huge mixed gullies and everything in between, the Grand Teton has it all. This iconic mountain is steeped in history.
Although trade classics like the Owen-Spalding and the Exum Ridge can be a cattle train at times, there are plenty of routes to keep everyone satisfied.

Getting There

Most approaches will start from the Lupine Meadows trailhead and take the trail into Garnet Canyon, eventually reaching the Lower Saddle. Some routes utilize different approaches and will be noted in the proper route descriptions.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grand Teton:

Owen Spalding 5.4 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1560 feet, Grade II

Upper Exum Ridge 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 4000 feet, Grade II

Lower Exum Ridge 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet

Direct Petzoldt Ridge 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III

North Ridge 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV

North Face Highlight Tour 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV

Beyer East Face I 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III

Featured Route For Grand Teton

Kelby Fisher on one of the most classic pitches anywhere, which combines two of the craziest features of the route: the "window" and this awesome hand traverse.

Direct Petzoldt Ridge 5.7 WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton

This route is a classic in almost every sense. Certainly one of the most memorable. If it's combined with the Upper Exum Ridge, it provides for an extremely enjoyable day in the mountains. The crux is a well-protected (pins?) slot/roof on great holds. "The Window" pitch is perhaps one of the most memorable anywhere! The route seems to stay a bit on the right side of a ridge. Climbers should be aware that the route does not top out on the summit. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Grand Teton

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North aspects of the Cathedral Group, with the Gra...	Chris Owen on the summit after climbing the Owen-S...	What is this, Pagagonia? Would you climb the Gran...
Summer storm on the Grand! ...as seen from Climber...	Nat on the Grand Teton, Upper Exum Ridge with the ...	Tetons from the road. July 20, 2008
The Grand From Lupine Meadows Trail	The Shadow of the Grand and the Middle Teton as se...	Tetons at night...
The grandest of them all!	Garnet Canyon and the Lower Saddle.	The Tetons, the mighty wind catcher. Photo: Bob Ho...
Parapenter above Glencoe Col.	Winter dawn, Grand Teton.	Spalding Falls in Garnet Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the meadows bivy site in Garnet Ca...	BETA PHOTO: Lower Saddle from moraine	BETA PHOTO: The fixed rope up to the Lower Saddle.
The Grand in B&W from the Lower Saddle

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