Mountain Project: Climbing Grand Teton National Park

Grand Teton National Park offers the climber an array of climbing types, positions, settings and conditions. There's everything from two-pitch sunny crag adventures to mixed alpine endurance testpieces. A more detailed description of the climbing character can be found in the descriptions of each area.

Getting There

Grand Teton National Park is located about 10 miles north of Jackson, WY. Directions to specific trailheads can be found in the individual areas.

Nearby Climbing

When visiting the Tetons, you might want to check out some of the other local climbing. The nearby climbing generally has less of a commitment factor, and is good for "rest" days or in questionable weather. Check out the Jackson Hole section for information on other climbing in the area.

And if the weather goes south but you still want to climb, be sure to check out Jackson Hole's new full-service climbing gym - The Enclosure Indoor Climbing Center . Over 10,000 sqft of sweet climbing wall at the foot of the Tetons.

Resources

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grand Teton National Park:

Southwest Couloir 3rd Trad, Alpine, 4000 feet, Grade II Middle Teton

East Face 4th Easy Snow Snow, Alpine, Grade III Teewinot

Owen Spalding 5.4 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1560 feet, Grade II Grand Teton

Upper Exum Ridge 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 4000 feet, Grade II Grand Teton

CMC Route 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade II Mount Moran

East Ridge 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 500 feet Disappointment Peak

Lower Exum Ridge 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet Grand Teton

Direct Petzoldt Ridge 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III Grand Teton

North Ridge 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV Grand Teton

North Face Highlight Tour 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV Grand Teton

Guide's Wall 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II Cascade Canyon

Irene's Arete 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade III Disappointment Peak

Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400 feet Cascade Canyon

No Perches Necessary 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 160 feet, Grade II Cascade Canyon

Open Book 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Disappointment Peak

Beyer East Face I 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III Grand Teton

The Snaz 5.10a Trad, Alpine, Grade IV Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress

Caveat Emptor 5.10- Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress

Sunshine Daydream 5.11- Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress

South Buttress Right, Mt. Moran 5.11 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 750 feet, Grade IV Mount Moran

Featured Route For Grand Teton National Park

The Exum Ridge (sunlit ridge on the right). The Enclosure is the peak to the left, and the Upper Saddle is the saddle between them.

Lower Exum Ridge 5.7 WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton

The Lower Exum Ridge is a classic route on the southeast side of the Grand Teton. All of the pitches are good but the 5th pitch is by far the best being that it's steep, exposed and still only 5.7. P1: A large chimney with some chockstones in it. Squeeze through a hole under the chockstones about halfway up and then climb out of the chimney on the right shortly after that and up to a large ledge.P2: Climb easy terrain up and left following some...[more] Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Grand Teton National Park

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BETA PHOTO: Looking south from the Grand Teton summit. From ri...	S. Cathedral Group	N. Cathedral Group
Spousal Unit looking into Idaho from the lower sad...	Jenny Lake Stream @ Sunset	Tetons. Photo by Blitzo.
Snake River and Grand Tetons, winter. Photo by Bli...	Tetons from the air (17,000 feet) during a mid-win...	From Antelope Flats
Middle Teton via Garnet Canyon	BETA PHOTO: Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail photo: Chris...	Sunrise on the 3 Beauties. Time to Play
Tetons in the mist	Morning Sun	BETA PHOTO: The Grand Teton facing North from the Lower Saddle
Sunset on the Tetons, GTNP, WY.	How to really enjoy the Tetons...	The moose I nearly ran into on the horse trail, Je...
BETA PHOTO: Current conditions as of 8-1-08. Taken for Teewee...	By moose junction...	The rappel out of the north entrance of GTNP can a...
Bull bison on the plain below the Tetons.	They are so Grand.	Mt Moran from Leigh Lake
BETA PHOTO: Looking south from Teewinot	Cathedral Group	Teton moonrise.
Tetons from the west in Jan.	Teton cloudscape.	Grand Teton and Owen from the northwest, in a very...
Meadows campsite in Garnet Canyon.	Just a nice picture of Nez Perce (left) and the Mi...	Sunrise over Teewinot
Nez Perce	Mid-October '09 view from Baxter's.

Comments on Grand Teton National Park

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By Buff Johnson
From: Coniferous, CO
Mar 8, 2006

This area has amazing rock quality, and is also a mix of great hiking. My best experiences here were planning on car-to-car outings without hauling all the overnight stuff. I seem to end up at Mountain High Pizza for some good grub after an outing. Staying at the AAC Climber's Ranch is a good way to get more info about conditions from others that have come back - we avoided two verglas epics by doing this.

Also, going to the ranger's station @ Jenny Lake is also good to talk with them.

By Forest
Jul 7, 2007

Baxter's Pinnacle :: On or about June 25, 2007, Sam Lightner and I replaced the rap anchor on Baxter's Pinnacle. The old anchor consisted of 2 pitons and a star bolt "equalized" with webbing. (In truth, all the force of the rappel was on 1 piton) We removed both pitons and all the webbing and replaced with 2 stainless bolts with chain. One a 3/8 and one a 1/2, both drilled by hand. Should be noted that one of the pitons, the one bearing the rap force, pulled out by hand and the other came out without a fight. We left the star bolt as a bit of historical artifact. Special thanks to ASCA for donating the hardware. Enjoy.

Forest Dramis

By jerome
Jul 5, 2009

Thanks forest for replacing those pins , I enjoy those bomber rap bolts every time I do baxters. If anyone ends up in the north gulley decent they will ,appreciate the bolts off the summit pinnacle as there is a lone quarter inch to rap off. And I work at mountain high pizza ,but I wouldn't say the grub is good, unless you spent a day in the hills,

By Spencer Purvis
From: Jackson, Ms.
Sep 6, 2009

I thought I should take this chance to plug the accommodations at the American Alpine Club Climber's Ranch. I spent six nights this past August at the Ranch and had a blast hanging out with a variety of diverse and friendly climbers. It is an affordable option with all the resources a Teton climber could need, including a fine library, wi-fi weather updates, great showers and a true climber's kitchen. It was a great place to visit with climbers as they filed in after their various climbs. You can always find someone willing to help with tricky approaches or beta for the climb and descent routes. The only drawback is that the cabins can be somewhat noisy with climbers on different schedules. Still, I would encourage any climber to take advantage of this resource and support the ranch.

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Grand Teton National Park

Description

Getting There

Nearby Climbing

Resources

The Classics