An unknown climber nearing the end of the stemming...
Description
This is the classic box stem on the far south end of the west face easily visable from the trail head at the parking lot. Expect tourist gawkers on this route. There is good reason for them to stare, this is one of the most unique and classic climbs in the country.
Climb the ramp and short section of 5.8 to get to a big ledge on top of a broken column at the base of the box. The second pitch is the one you've heard about. Climb up setting gear in the crack on the left when ever you feel like it. There are some good jams and fingerlocks on your way, but you must stem your legs and in some places pure stemming is the only option. Move fast and fight the burn. Easier for taller people, but the box narrows as you get higher. Belay at the top of the lefthand column. From here you can continue up to your left on 5.8 cracks or rap from bolts with double ropes.
They say no move is harder than 5.9, but endurace and pain threshold are the keys here! Have Fun.
Mark Morehouse
Protection
stoppers and small to medium cams. The less gear you set the less burned you will get!
While unrelenting for sure, this route is very easy to protect. Continual movement is the key, and good crack holds will help along the way. I climbed this route with someone under 5'5", he climbed the crack the whole way, and only used the stem for rests! No 5.10 climber should shy away. One of a kind.
I'm 5'6 with relatively short legs and was able to stem/chimney whenever I wanted. Awesome route but oh, the pain. The pain!
By Jay Knower Administrator Mar 9, 2005 rating: 5.10d
I got the same pump in my calves I usually get in my forearms after leading this pitch. I think I placed about twenty pieces of gear, because the bottlenecks in the left crack were too good to pass up, and because, at any minute, I could have succumed to the pain.
Pitch 3 is a short and fun romp after the determination and focus required for p2. Pitch 4 looked fun, too, but we got rained off. Guess I have to do it again....
Summited the tower on the route. Did the 10a variation of P4 over the right side of the roof (it was fun and felt hard for the grade). On P4, one can skip the first anchor and go about 150ft total to the next anchor. It's then another 70/80 ft to a set of anchor (look left) at the summit.
I'm 5'6 and can stem anywhere on P2, but moving off of pure stem would be quite difficult for the first 30 ft).
West Face
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