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Bon Homme Variation
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.4 from 123
votes
Routes in South and East Faces
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Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bittersweet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R |
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Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Delta I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Let Me Go Wild T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Phillip's Retreat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Recidivism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walt Bailey Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Window, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Dennis Horning, Howard Hauck '72 |
| Page Views: | 30,962 total · 117/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Jul 25, 2002 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
Bon Homme Variation is a separate and unique climb from Bon Homme. It shares only the start. Follow the ramp to the area of the old ladder. Bon Homme is about four cracks to the left of the ladder.
Pitch 1: Climb the start of the wide Bon Homme crack. Climb past a chockstone, and then look for a traverse to the left. Face climb across the column when obvious, and get into the next crack over. Then follow this crack system (double cracks) up to a huge ledge. When I did this, I climbed this first pitch as two separate pitches. I belayed somewhere after the traverse.
Pitch 2: Climb an easier crack (5.5) to the meadows. This requires most of a rope-length. This is the left of the two available cracks on this ledge.
Pitch 1: Climb the start of the wide Bon Homme crack. Climb past a chockstone, and then look for a traverse to the left. Face climb across the column when obvious, and get into the next crack over. Then follow this crack system (double cracks) up to a huge ledge. When I did this, I climbed this first pitch as two separate pitches. I belayed somewhere after the traverse.
Pitch 2: Climb an easier crack (5.5) to the meadows. This requires most of a rope-length. This is the left of the two available cracks on this ledge.
Photos
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