This climb has one of the more interesting pitches at the tower. The first pitch is essentially an approach pitch, but still fun (5.5). The second pitch is a long seam that is a full rope length. This originally was only possible as an aid climb, but as people kept putting larger pitons in old pin scars, the seam widened up enough to jam two fingers in each slot. Pins are no longer used, and this is currently a free climb. For the third pitch, climb a short 5.4 section to the meadows.
This route is pretty easy to find. Follow the South Face approach, passing the ladder near Bon Homme. Slightly past this point is a column separated from the tower with a bolted line up it (Roach Addition, 5.7). Start just right of this rock for the 5.5 pitch.
Protection
Nuts, Aliens, TCU's, tricams - anything for finger size on the second pitch. Standard Rack for first pitch.
This route is very low angle... Almost a face climb. A must do route. Beautiful stemming and finger crack with face holds. One of the best 5.10s in the USA. Get out and do it!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
