South and East Faces

Devils Tower... as the Prairie Dogs see it every m...

Description 

The South and East Faces both share the same approach, so I am lumping them into one "rock". The South and East face routes are very popular, perhaps because they end up at the meadows. Once at the meadows, it is easy to top out. The most climbed routes on the tower (besides Durrance) are on the East face, including Soler and Tad. The South face also holds some popular routes, including Bon Homme Variation and Walt Bailey. Most routes are 2 long pitches to the meadows, with Walt Bailey being only one pitch. Rappel off the meadows chain anchors with two ropes for 3 rappels to reach the ground. Also, some routes have their own set of rap anchors.

Getting There 

From the Devil's Tower parking lot, take the paved trail towards the tower. Take a right when the trail forks, and follow this trail around towards the south face. Look for a climber's trail taking off up towards the tower when you see a viewing tube (for looking at the old wooden ladder near Bon Homme). Follow this good trail up to some slabs near Durrance, then climb up and to the right, following the slabs around the tower. From here, it depends which route you are doing as to how far to go. Some of these approach rocks are really slick, so be careful with heavy loads.

The Classics

Featured Route For South and East Faces

Dusk In Dogtown 5.10c  WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces

Location: Take the south face approach to the base of Soler, continue traversing discontinuous ledges, past some rappel anchors, until below the window (series of overhanging roofs). The climb is located just left of the overhangs in a right facing dihedral. The crack has a V-shaped pod approximately 30' off the starting ledge. Note: The traverse from Soler to the window is quite exposed.This route features many fingerlocks and edging on low...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

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Approach hike.

Summer evening