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Mystic and the Mulchers
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 42
votes
Routes in North Face & Northwest Corner
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Call Evita 911 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Doldrums T C2+ |
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Four Play T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Friend of the Devil 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3- |
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Klondike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Leaping Lizards T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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McCarthy's North Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mystic and the Mulchers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Neverlasting T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Kiss for Dog Lips T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Psychic Turbulance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Spiney Norman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Whine and Bruises T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Schlinkmann, Guilmette,Fisher and Pee Pee, 7/27/85 |
| Page Views: | 4,311 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Jim McGuire on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
Low angled face climbing along a finger crack that eats small wired stoppers best describes this climb. It's better to approach from the east side as the more direct or western line encounters steeper, vegetated and generally disgusting terrain.
From the pleasant, flat staging area under New Wave and Broken Tree move right two cracks beyond the start of Everlasting to the Mulchers crack start. Meander up the low angle crack plugging in small wireds at will. The crack steepens near the top and the crux comes just above a mini-roof by a bolt. The 3 bolt belay is just above on a nice flat platform for the feet, 150 ft. 5.8-. Rap the route.
The northeast corner area of the tower is great for a day full of climbing. It offers a veritable cornucopia of terrific one pitch classics.
From the pleasant, flat staging area under New Wave and Broken Tree move right two cracks beyond the start of Everlasting to the Mulchers crack start. Meander up the low angle crack plugging in small wireds at will. The crack steepens near the top and the crux comes just above a mini-roof by a bolt. The 3 bolt belay is just above on a nice flat platform for the feet, 150 ft. 5.8-. Rap the route.
The northeast corner area of the tower is great for a day full of climbing. It offers a veritable cornucopia of terrific one pitch classics.
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