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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fruity Pebbles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hubba Bubba T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maid in the Shaid T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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NORTH FACE RAPPEL ROUTE TR 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path Through Enlightenment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2-3 |
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Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- |
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Sassenach's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spectator Sport T A2- |
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Stepping Out of Flatland T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Larsen & Horning - 1982 |
| Page Views: | 14,918 total · 55/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 20, 2002 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
What a fantastic climb! We climbed this as an approach to Assembly Line - it starts at the Broken Tree area and finishes on top of the pillar where Assembly Line begins. Just to the right of this line is "Broken Tree" - another 10a that follows an obvious steep dihedral formed by, I believe, the Everlasting column.
I led this whole thing in one pitch using a 70m rope - this is definitely the way to do the climb: even with a 60, have your partner tied in and ready to move up the pillar after you as you reach near the top - you will use all the rope. The climb starts off on a ramp and crack and gradually gets steeper and steeper, culminating in a very off-balance step-right move at the bolt. This move is very reminiscent of the crux of p1 of C'est La Vie in Eldorado Canyon in Boulder. Fantastic!
The climbing after this move is still quite difficult (but there are stances), easing after 15'. The climb culminates in 20' of perfect hand crack.
I led this whole thing in one pitch using a 70m rope - this is definitely the way to do the climb: even with a 60, have your partner tied in and ready to move up the pillar after you as you reach near the top - you will use all the rope. The climb starts off on a ramp and crack and gradually gets steeper and steeper, culminating in a very off-balance step-right move at the bolt. This move is very reminiscent of the crux of p1 of C'est La Vie in Eldorado Canyon in Boulder. Fantastic!
The climbing after this move is still quite difficult (but there are stances), easing after 15'. The climb culminates in 20' of perfect hand crack.
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