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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fruity Pebbles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hubba Bubba T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maid in the Shaid T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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NORTH FACE RAPPEL ROUTE TR 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path Through Enlightenment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2-3 |
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Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- |
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Sassenach's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spectator Sport T A2- |
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Stepping Out of Flatland T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dennis Horning, Judd Jennerjahn '75 |
| Page Views: | 29,913 total · 110/month |
| Shared By: | Barrett Cooper on Sep 6, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
An amazingly continuous hand crack that begins from the platform reached after the steep steps on the Northeast approach, directly left of Teacher's Lounge. The route starts after the two pitches moving up and left through ledges and bushes and back right to Teacher's Lounge ledge as described in Patent Pending and the Northeast Buttress approach. The route is easily located from the Teachers Lounge above and to the left (around the corner) of the rap anchors for New Wave and Broken Tree. The line starts out a finger crack for 30’ and turns into a hand crack and continues that way for about 110' where it reaches a little hollow offwidth section and is 5.9 all the way. The offwidth section is much easier climbing and a good place to rest. It continues on for about 20-30' to a bulge. If you look left from there you'll realize the rap anchors are hidden around the corner on the column on your left (look for a bolted hanger facing you that tells you where the anchors are around the corner and protects the move to the anchors, you can not see the anchors unless you lean way back so thank goodness someone put the bolt there because I was getting ready to try to pull the bulge above me). The line is, as a friend of mine put it, sicko good and was the best line we found on the tower at that grade by far!!!
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