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 Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
DescriptionThis area encompasses a large portion of Devil's Tower that is accessable via the East and Northeast buttress approaches. Everything from offwidth to finger cracks can be found here. Most routes are of high quality with sustained straight-in climbing. On the East side of the tower looms a large roof system that cuts across the sheer East face of the tower. To the right of these roofs is the Belle Fouche buttress which forms a prominent protrusion that ledges out halfway up the tower. This buttress marks, more or less, the left end of the routes accessable from this appoach. The right end is at the terminus of the ramp below the north face. Quality climbs of note include Belle Fouche buttress, McCarthy's North Face, and New Wave. From the Teacher's Lounge ledge there are several great climbs including Patent Pending and Assembly Line. Getting ThereFrom the lot follow the paved trail around the North side of the tower. The trail dips low into the woods and then climbs back into view of the tower. Hike past a bench and before a large boulder start looking for a faint trail that is sometimes cairned. The trail winds up to the notch that separates the base of the east face from the northeast. At the notch the better defined trail goes up steps to the right to the routes below teacher's ledge lounge and continues on broken ledges to all the north face routes. The less defined trail is so because there are less quality routes and abundant poison ivy. To reach routes on and near Belle Fouche buttress ford the ivy and scramble up and across slabs to the base. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East and Northeast Buttress Approach:
Mystic and the Mulchers 5.8- Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Patent Pending 5.8+ Trad, 4 pitches, 640 feet, Grade III
Assembly Line 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet
Klondike 5.10a R Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 200 feet
New Wave 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet
Broken Tree 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 270 feet
Belle Fourche Buttress 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Burning Daylight 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet
Buckspeck 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 170 feet
Casper College 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet
Everlasting 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
Featured Route For East and Northeast Buttress Approach
 Are all Devil's Tower face climbs this good??? Klondike is one long pitch of excellent face climbing on super postitive holds. Technically speaking this climb is run-out to the first bolt, but I found enough gear on the way up to feel secure. However, this is no gym climb: expect 15' stretches between bolts.It begins a ways around the tower from the Everlasting column, just right of a crack with a chockstone and just left of a series of three ...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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