Durrance Approach

Don't forget your wide gear!

Description 

This approach leads to Durrance and surrounding cracks. Durrance is the most popular route on the tower, and it is usually crowded during summer months. This area also contains the Wiessner offwidth, Best Crack in Minnesota, Rangers are People Too, Pigeon English, etc. This area is primarily on the south side of the tower, so expect hot sun through most of the day.

Getting There 

Take the trail east from the parking lot and then take a right at the junction a short distance away. Soon after, start heading toward the tower across the talus, taking the path of least resistence. This is also the start for the west face approaches. As you approach the tower, scramble up onto the southeast shoulder, and then depending on the route desired, follow this trail east around the tower. Durrance is located around the tower a ways, and starts near the location of the ramp for the south and east faces.

Durrance can also be reached by following the approach for the south/east faces until the start of the ramp. At this point, some scrambling/lower 5th class rock is required to get up to the base of the route and should probably be roped up.

The Classics

Featured Route For Durrance Approach

Durrance 5.7  WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach

The Durrance route is listed as one of the 50 classic climbs in North America. A 4-6 pitch route that tops out at the summit. The climb is mainly off-width and hand-crack with a few spots of chimney. You also get the choice of working a small traverse. Don't forget to register at the Visitor's Center before and after the climb. This is a crowded route and a few minutes can mean the difference between success and failure. Either plan to arrive aro...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Durrance Approach Slideshow

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Durrance Area. Photo by Todd Gordon.	BETA PHOTO: My Southwest Buttress Hurts...	P4 Durance
P1 Durance