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Wunsch's Simulator
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 15
votes
Routes in Wigwam Dome
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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El Supremo T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Hill's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lady Slipper T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Little Bo Peep Diploma T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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On The Edge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pow Wow Canal T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ramblin' Rose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teepee Tower Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trout-Baker Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Violent Energy T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Warpath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wunsch's Simulator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Ken Trout & Erik Winkleman, circa 1984 |
| Page Views: | 5,613 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Jun 21, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
To find this route, locate the Teepee-Tower Crack (see directions that are given for that route). From the Tee-Pee-Tower Crack, hike uphill to the left approximately 100 yards. The route is the obvious finger crack in a corner with a slab on the left wall to make it easier to layback. There is a short chimney section halfway up the route.
To get up to this crack, either scramble straight up (3rd to 4th class), or hike a little further up the hill to get on a ledge that you can walk across.
This was a nice pitch with excellent rock, beautiful finger locking/laybacking and a fun little chimney section. Getting out of the chimney might be the crux, but you can have a hand to fist-sized cam above your head. The laybacking is a bit pumpy, so keep an eye out for the rest stances. Set a gear belay after traversing a little left at the top on a little ridge.
To descend, go over the other side of the little ridge. We did this by scrambling up the little chimney behind the belay perch (assuming east is the direction that you were hiking when you walked up the gully to the base of the route), then you walk along little ledges towards the east until you can rap from a little tree on a ledge. There are slings and a quicklink. This puts you slightly up-gully from the base of the route.
To get up to this crack, either scramble straight up (3rd to 4th class), or hike a little further up the hill to get on a ledge that you can walk across.
This was a nice pitch with excellent rock, beautiful finger locking/laybacking and a fun little chimney section. Getting out of the chimney might be the crux, but you can have a hand to fist-sized cam above your head. The laybacking is a bit pumpy, so keep an eye out for the rest stances. Set a gear belay after traversing a little left at the top on a little ridge.
To descend, go over the other side of the little ridge. We did this by scrambling up the little chimney behind the belay perch (assuming east is the direction that you were hiking when you walked up the gully to the base of the route), then you walk along little ledges towards the east until you can rap from a little tree on a ledge. There are slings and a quicklink. This puts you slightly up-gully from the base of the route.
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