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This route is located on Turkey Tail. It starts behind a large pine tree, about 40' right of Whimsical Dreams. The first crux involves a short, but very burly lieback about 15'off the ground with slippery footholds. Make sure you place good gear. Above that, easy finger locks reach a sloping ledge. From here, I highly recommend the bolted arete, 4 bolts lead you through typical arete moves. Resist the temptation to dive back into the crack when the arete hits the roof. Stay on the face until you can reach a good hand jam formed by a chockstone. One hand-sized piece gets you to the anchors, where you can rap 70' to the ground. The 2 star rating applies to the arete, the crack section is nothing to write home about, and I thought it felt much harder than the 11a rating the guidebook gives it.
Thin gear for the start, QDs if you want to do the bolted arete variation, otherwise some wider gear for pulling the roof.
|By Rob Dillon|
Mar 1, 2007
This is like a topo for the Nose that strongly suggests you stick to the Grape Race.
|By Mike Anderson|
From: Dayton, OH
Mar 5, 2007
I guess it's the same, if Wudd... was the first route on the most impressive piece of granite in the world, and if the bolted arete is a manufactured route that was never finished.
Believe it or not, it's actually possible to admit that a bolted variation with great rock, great position and great movement is superior to a pidgeon-infested, guano filled wide crack without instantly bursting into flames for the sin of being a sport climbing sympathizer.
The '70s were almost 40 years ago, people!!
Jul 16, 2009
FA Jimmy Dunn.
From: the farside
Oct 24, 2009
The route might be 40 years old, but it's classic Turkey.
That's more than you can say for a bolted piece of poser fluff....
Very interesting climb that kicked my ass at the end of the day....
From: Golden, CO
Dec 15, 2009
I posted the bolted arete variation separately to avoid confusion, Gobble This is not Wudamudafuka.
From: Petaluma California
Jun 4, 2010
This thing was always rated 5.10. I had Cheney insisting it was 10c. Doubt if he'd done it since 1985.
Anyway, tricky lay back to start. The arete is indeed a superior option. However, Mike neglects the OW roof with the nasty glare 40 ft above the arete. This is also part of the 10c route.
Go armed with the smallest Bigbro. Felt more like 11+ to me. I might have been the second one through that thing.