Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 5.12a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Jim Brink, Dick Holm - 1986 |
| Submitted By: | Jeff G. on May 21, 2009 |
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Very nice face climbing along a grassy seam. This is a great direct start to the all time classic finger crack of One Way Sunset. No fixed gear with this start and a pure line. Well worth doing. Crux is near the top just before it joins the regular start. Insecure and foot intensive for several moves at the crux. Books all say 12a. May be soft for the grade. The Wrong Way start by itself does not warrant 4 stars but when combined with the finger crack on One Way Sunset it is a super classic pitch.
Location Starts just right of the normal One Way Sunset start. It is the direct line up to the beautiful finger crack of One Way.
Protection pro is better than it appears from below, however, I don't think this is led very often. I had to clean the seam on rap with a nut tool to expose the stopper placements. Good medium stoppers, one or two rps, and a few small cams provide good protection although it is a little spaced through the mid section of the route. The top finger crack of One Way Sunset protects perfectly with small cams.
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