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Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jim Brink, Dick Holm - 1986
Page Views: 1,023
Submitted By: Jeff G. on May 21, 2009
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Description 

Very nice face climbing along a grassy seam. This is a great direct start to the all time classic finger crack of One Way Sunset. No fixed gear with this start and a pure line. Well worth doing. Crux is near the top just before it joins the regular start. Insecure and foot intensive for several moves at the crux. Books all say 12a. May be soft for the grade. The Wrong Way start by itself does not warrant 4 stars but when combined with the finger crack on One Way Sunset it is a super classic pitch.


Location 

Starts just right of the normal One Way Sunset start. It is the direct line up to the beautiful finger crack of One Way.


Protection 

pro is better than it appears from below, however, I don't think this is led very often. I had to clean the seam on rap with a nut tool to expose the stopper placements. Good medium stoppers, one or two rps, and a few small cams provide good protection although it is a little spaced through the mid section of the route. The top finger crack of One Way Sunset protects perfectly with small cams.



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