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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Wrist T 

Wrist 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bonnie Prudden and Hans Kraus, 1953
Page Views: 3,930
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Paul Deagle - Wrist 5.6

Description 

P1: Climb up the crack, then head up and right across easier ground to the base of the left-facing corner with an offwidth in the back. Mosey (hah!) up this to a belay ledge. (5.5, 100ft.)

It is better to belay an inexperienced second on P1 from a tree immediately after the crux, then move the belay station to the GT ledge (only 10 feet of class 3 scramble), which will put you directly under the crux roof of P2.

P2: Climb the right-facing corner to a roof, then make a heart-pounding traverse out left onto the face above. Continue up to the top. (5.6, 100ft.)

Rappel by the bolted rappel route, a few steps to climber's right. The first set of bolts is down from the edge a bit - look carefully. A set of single 60m raps will get you down.

Location 

Look for an obvious crack, 35 feet left of Arch.

Protection 

Standard rack, with something big (4") for the offwidth/flake on P1.


Photos of Wrist Slideshow Add Photo
Krista about to start the crux of P1 of Wrist
Krista about to start the crux of P1 of Wrist
Mike Amato leading the last pitch of Wrist, a typi...
Mike Amato leading the last pitch of Wrist, a typi...
Wrist.    Bring a large piece to protect the layba...
BETA PHOTO: Wrist. Bring a large piece to protect the layba...
The P2 crux - I had to clip both ropes to protect ...
BETA PHOTO: The P2 crux - I had to clip both ropes to protect ...
Kristin Knudson finishes up Wrist.
Kristin Knudson finishes up Wrist.

Comments on Wrist Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 19, 2014
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Feb 6, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a great route for a hot day, as both belays are shaded.

A #4 camalot protects the 5.5 crux on the first pitch. The crack is somewhat off-width if you stick to it. It is possible to climb to the right of the crack though.
By GMBurns
Aug 12, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Loved the P2 traverse. I felt the lieback on P1 was a bit harder than 5.6.
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Apr 15, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

I think P1 is actually 5.5. P2 is the money pitch. I feel like P1 is just another typical corner climb, not very special. Arch P1 to Wrist P2 is much better climb.
By Dana Marie
From: Cold Spring
May 17, 2010

Just did this route and thought it was great. Both P1 and P2 cruxes were thoughtful and challenging. P2's airy traverse is fun - I am tall, so I got the foot hold without an intermediate step at the beginning...lucky me.
By doligo
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

As GMBurns I found the 5.5 layback of P1 more challenging than the P2 traverse, maybe because I dislike laybacks especially on leads. I don't understand why people recommend Arch-Wrist link-up. Arch is rather boring. P1 of Wrist is great - nice crack, face and then a layback.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 21, 2010

Ok, What did I miss on the P2 traverse? Feet perhaps? I lead this today and felt that it was harder than a 5.6. I wasted a ton of energy go up and down on the "high road" vs. the "low road". I think I needed to heel hook the big horn and just move across on the low road. Anyways, I made it and was laughing when I finished. I am sure I looked very funny as my feet were scrambling for purchase. The pro is great on the traverse and you are dangling in mid air, so a fall would have really no consequences.

So is there secret beta that I need to know for next time?
By Barrett Stetson
Oct 31, 2010

P1: A #4 Camalot might have been helpful, only had a #3 that fit about halfway up the offwidth but it's a large deep crack that opens above that and was a little concerned about it walking up and out. Had a similar sized hex (maybe slightly larger) that there was a decent spot for a bit higher and made me happy I had brought them up. There is some smaller gear out on the arete (on the outside of the offwidth) until you get about midpoint.

P2: The roof move is super protectable. There was a lovely fixed cam that I went ahead and backed up anyways. I'm short, so I had to hand traverse a few moves (feet are not supporting any real weight) until I could throw my foot on on the protruding corner and twist myself up to grab the protruding horn above that and pull myself over.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 9, 2011

As many have posted prior, the layback flake on pitch 1 was the toughest technical part of both pitches. On lead I spent my #4 as the first piece on the route (doh!) and only had a #3 to protect the flake, which caught me by surprise both is how much fun, pumpy, and runout it ended up being. Was able to find a knee lock stance at the top of the flake/off-width to place a piece on the corner to protect the final move to the ledge. Definitely bring one or two #3 cams, and a #4 for the top of P1. Followed P2, very pumpy and airy traverse near the top, but very safe and rewarding. The Horseman on steroids, and better IMO.
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

my favorite 5.6 at the gunks thus far. The layback on pitch 1, in my opinion, is a bit tougher than the p2 crux which takes great gear and is more mental than anything.
By SethG
May 2, 2011

The pitch two crux is fun and exciting. I just did pitch one for the first time the other day and ever since I've been trying to come up with another example of a 5.5 pitch that is so committing. I can't think of one. The layback off the edge of the off-width is one heck of a move. I put a number 3 C4 as high as I could but I would have been happier with a bigger cam.
By rogerbenton
May 21, 2012

that fixed cam (#3 wired bliss??) is still in the P2 roof and feels solid but easily backed up with a #2 C4.

really fun route.
By Alex Kowalcyk
From: Easton, PA
Jul 5, 2012

Why do Arch to P2 of Wrist when you can do both pitches of Wrist? Great climbing to be had on both pitches! You guys are all crazy for laybacking that 4" crack. When I see a sweet cozy crack, I jam it when on lead. Great feet in the crack, and jugs up above, as well as finger-sized gear. I climbed this this afternoon and was in the shade the whole way. P1 has a rappel sling tree anchor. No rap anchor on top P2. Had to walk off.
By SethG
Jul 6, 2012

Nothing wrong with walking off but there is a bolted rappel route just ten seconds to the climber's right of the topout.
By Kurtz
May 27, 2014

Thanks, Seth. The chains are easy to miss. You have to walk down toward the edge a bit. A single 60m gets you down.
By jdrago
From: Rosendale, NY
Jun 7, 2014

Runout and a lot of loose rock. The offwidth is pretty sweet but be careful of all the big loose rock. I didn't know about being bringing big gear, and it was very runout without it.
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Aug 19, 2014

A lot of loose rock and sand mid way on 1st pitch, and a 4" cam pretty much mandatory for 1st pitch off width. Bring a couple 4' runners to deal with rope drag on pitch 2. Both pitches are good fun.