Wright's Lake has been a recently discovered "secret" that has been in the making for almost 20 years. Currently, the 25 or so established routes are mostly intermediate to difficult (5.10 and harder), though the potential for many many more routes of all ranges exists. Bouldering is also plentiful in the campground, and throughout the park. This secluded area sits North of Highway 50 just a little past Kyburz, which is a few miles before Lover's Leap.
Clean granite is the only rock you'll find, and looks and climbs a lot like Echo Pass though in a more Half Dome Granite slabby location. Speaking of clean - this is the cleanest area I've ever been to for a base area. Let's keep it that way! Pack out what you bring in, and don't cause undue distress to the surrounding wilderness.
You can camp for $16 a night in the campground down by the lake, or for those on a budget, you can camp either at Lover's Leap (with a bathroom) or at Phantom Spires (about 20 minutes away) for free.
Traditional and run out sport routes are currently in the 80+ range in height, and without rappelling into some sections, top-roping is logistically quite difficult. A convenient walk-off descends the gully to the left of the main rock formation, and most bouldering rocks have simple walk-offs.
From the West:
Take Highway 50 to Kyburz, which is 31 miles East of Placerville. From Kyburz, continue East 4.9 miles to the marked Wrights Lake Road, which is a left turn.
Continue using the directions below.
From the East:
Head approximately 20 miles West on Highway 50, 4.1 miles past the small town of Strawberry (and Lover's Leap), to Wright's Lake Road, which is a right turn, though the sign is either missing or hard to see heading West. Continue using the directions below.
Once on Wright's Lake Road:
This will wander up a around for a while, getting narrower as it climbs. 8 long miles later( about 25 - 35 minutes, depending on who you get stuck behind, and what they're towing), you will be in Wrights Lake Park.
The left-most climb on the main face of the wall, The Prow is pretty steep for a .10a trad route, but most of the holds are pretty bomber. Start on a slab with two bolts before attaining the ledge that the main face towers over. It is wise to use long slings on these two bolts - or to unclip the first bolt once past the difficult move - because you'll feel the rope drag up top.After the ledge, there's a .4" or .5" cam placement to protect moves on diagnol ramps/cracks below the first bolt. At...[more]Browse More Classics in CA