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This obscure area will provide some isolation from the other climbers no matter when you come. There are two small crags easily accessible from the same parking spot. They are both a short walk from the car and they are both sunny (Wacholderspitze more so than Würgauer Wändchen), though they are in the trees. On a nice weekend, the motorcyclists are out en force, and you can tell this because the street is only about 50m downhill and they're constantly riding by. Come here on a nice week day, and not too soon after rain because the crags don't dry terribly fast.
From Würgau, drive in the direction of Hollfeld. Where the road peaks a hill there's a left turn towards Roßdorf. Take this and after 20m (almost immediately) turn left onto a dirt road. Follow this for 750m to the high voltage tower 193 and park there. The GPS coordinates indicate this parking spot.
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Schräger Vogel 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13 Europe : Germany : ... : Next Door Neighbor
This one's pretty crap. Climb up to the first bolt and then either hold to the right as you go up or just plunge into the moss and climb up and then right to the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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