This obscure area will provide some isolation from the other climbers no matter when you come. There are two small crags easily accessible from the same parking spot. They are both a short walk from the car and they are both sunny (Wacholderspitze more so than Würgauer Wändchen), though they are in the trees. On a nice weekend, the motorcyclists are out en force, and you can tell this because the street is only about 50m downhill and they're constantly riding by. Come here on a nice week day, and not too soon after rain because the crags don't dry terribly fast.
From Würgau, drive in the direction of Hollfeld. Where the road peaks a hill there's a left turn towards Roßdorf. Take this and after 20m (almost immediately) turn left onto a dirt road. Follow this for 750m to the high voltage tower 193 and park there. The GPS coordinates indicate this parking spot.
My book indicates that you should start on the front side where there is a bolt next to some clean rock, and then head up and left past two more bolts up to reach the long crack. I didn't realize this before I did the route, but I also didn't see the two bolts between the 1st and the crack...My variation starts the same as Bruch & Riss and heads up and to the right to the crack. Follow the crack to the anchor shared with Bruch & Riss....[more]Browse More Classics in International