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Würgauer Gebeit

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Bayreuter Wand 
Nürnberger Turm 
Würgauer Nadel 

Würgauer Gebeit  


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Location: 49.9807, 11.0989 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 518
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 26, 2011
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Description 

An old climbing area with lots of history. The ratings in this area are a little sandbagged (likely mostly due to the age of the area). Some rivalry between the climbers in Nuernberg and Bamberg took place here. Kurt Albert established some lines, as well as John Bachar.
This area has many different towers and small walls all next to each other, so I will provide a layout of where the crags are located in relation to each other, and then each crag will be a separate area to help understand how to find the routes.

Getting There 

Drive to Bamberg. From Bamberg, head down the A70 to Schesslitz and head east toward Würgau. After driving through Würgau you'll make 4 hair-pin-like turns as you head uphill. Right after the last turn you'll see a gate on your left and an opening through the forest. The book tells you to park on the right, so I assume you could pull up onto the grassy lot here (drive over the curb). Walk into the opening in the forest and uphill for 30m. There's a fence on the left, and when it ends, head left on the path that goes uphill. Follow it until you get to the crags after about 5 to 10 minutes, depending on what you're looking for.

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.0 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Würgauer Gebeit
A climber clipping the 2nd bolt in Nordriss.

Nordriss 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Europe : Germany : ... : Nürnberger Turm
This route was the key to winning the first ascent of the tower back at the very early 20th century. And with this ascent, the Nuremberg climbers were able to snatch the name rights of this tower from under the noses of the local Bambergers.Although the route is definitely run-out, you don't really need any extra gear between bolts. However, you could also climb this completely clean if you brought a full rack, with emphasis on the wide gear....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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