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Joel Tinl on the headwall.
Photo courtesy of And...
Best trad line in area, has only seen a few ascents. Couldn't find out who did it and what style. We took the liberty to name it. Start in chossy band below nice open book w'2" crack going up to mini roof, turn on left then trend right over stegosaurus flakes, solid and cool. Then ascend straight in finger crack with pods and good small edges for feet.
Bolted variation climbs on right face (5.11c). Finish same crack to new chain anchor.
Far left of cliff in beautiful black rock. Middle line of black section
Full set of nuts and cams to two inches. Two bolt anchor.
Kristin approaching the finger crack on the headwa...
Original Anchor. New sport anchor below. Any ide...
|By Mike Howard|
Nov 7, 2008
"the best 5.11 trad-cragging pitch in the Southwest? It's gotta be one of them."
Matt Samet: editor in chief, Climbing Magazine
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 23, 2011
Super fun! We did the bolted variation to the start, which looked cleaner/more aesthetic than the original version. In fact, when I climbed it, I assumed that the "bolted variation" was the standard way to go! I guess it doesn't really matter too much, since both ways get you to the awesome splitter on the upper headwall. I'm not sure which start is harder, though I felt the bolted start was a touch harder than the crack climbing above.
A generous rack suggestion would be a set of stoppers, double cams from 0 TCU/C3 to .5 C4, and one .75 (you will need a hand-sized piece or two if you do the left start). A solid 5.11- leader would be fine with a single rack.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 22, 2011
This is a pretty good climb, perhaps the best trad climb at Vista Verde. However, considering the hype I'd heard, I was mildly disappointed. While the splitter upper finger crack is really awesome, it's only about 20' long, there's a pretty big rest stance half way up the climb before you get to it; and the bolted variation, though a fun and more direct way to go, is overbolted with the first and last bolts being close to cam placements. I think that the best cracks at White Rock, Diablo, and the Cochiti area are just as good.