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T-Wall West
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Nice Place to Come T 
A Turn of the Page S 
Air Raid T 
Burn S 
Can't Touch This T 
Circus Circus T 
Dark Star, The S 
Dumpster Proof S 
Elephus Maximus T 
First Dance T 
Fists of Fury T 
Golden Child T 
Grace S 
Greener Pastures T 
Hammer Time T 
Hands of Stone S 
Harvest Time T 
Heat Vision T 
Hell or High Water T 
Homeland Insecurity T 
Hookers and Blow T 
In Sight of Power T 
Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 
Little Green Men T 
Little Steps T 
Mass Transit T 
Message, The S 
One Slip T 
Only on Earth T 
Open Boat Whalers T 
Open Casket T 
Path of the Misfits T 
Path of the Mystics T 
Psycho Path S 
Quick an' Dirty T 
Ribbon Cracks T 
Riff, The T 
Run with the Horseman T 
Sole Searcher T 
Starting Point T 
Step Into My Dream T 
Step Right Up T 
Stinger Arete, The S 
Stone Hinge S 
Sundance T 
Superwave T 
T-Rex S 
Talon T 
Tamper Proof T 
Tribal Babysitter T 
Unknown L of Wild Pink T 
Voodoo That You Do T 
Where Lizards Go to Die T 
Wild Pink Direct T 
William "The Frig" Perry T 
Wood Spirit T 
Wrectum Wrecker T 

Wrectum Wrecker 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Forest Gardner 1985
Page Views: 356
Submitted By: American Dankster on Nov 21, 2011

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Description 

Climb 5.6 for 35ft to a bolt just below the (black streaked) orange overhang. You can place a finger size cam in the pocket below the bolt and not even use the bolt

Boulder out and through the white triangle in the roof. Turn it up a notch and pull into one of the coolest huecos around. (nicknamed the toilet bowl). Clip the bolt (the only one needed).

Pull out of the hueco and continue straight and right, up a head wall. A few hard moves lead to a crack in a small roof. Pull over this and head right to bolted anchor.

An obvious contender for best hueco at T Wall.

Location 

The Wasteland. To The Right of Talon And Left of Circus Circus/Two Clowns on a Rope.

There is a 5.12 Variation called Spinal Wrecker that goes left after you crawl into the bowl. I recommend not clipping that bolt over your head and far left if your doing Wrectum Wrecker. Run it!

Protection 

Small nuts
TCUs/C3s
Quickdraws (One bolt, hmm or two)
#2
(Optional .5-1)
Tape Gloves are nice.


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