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Wreckage Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Wreckage Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anonymous Coward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bionic Bitch Slap S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Confusion Tactics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Destructomatic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Handy Capable S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Howler Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hunger Pains S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Invisible Flying Gargoyles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Local Yokel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mr. Whipple's Wild Ride S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Obliteration Divine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pair o’ grins S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Tail Gate Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ticks Dig Me S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Toads Hollow S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Triathlon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Wingman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	1,044 ft
GPS:	38.91441, -121.01485 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	44,105 total · 174/month
Shared By:	Aron Quiter on Jun 8, 2003 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.

Access Issue: Closed until further notice - parks.ca.gov/pages/502/file… Details

Description

This is another fine and popular sport wall at Auburn. You'll find slabs, aretes, funky features and overhangs in this 50 foot wall. There are currently 16 climbs of varied difficulty, from 5.7 - 5.12. While there are some obvious lines above (would be second pitches), due to the chossiness of the quarry and the very real potential of rockfall/knocking stuff loose, coupled with the popularity of this wall, it is not recommended to consider bolting second pitches. Any accident, or worse a fatality caused by rockfall, may have severe consequences to the overall access at Auburn. It's just not worth the risk!

This wall cooks in the sun on a warm summer afternoon, but when it's not 110 degrees on the rock, the climbing is quite pleasant. All routes lower off of top anchors.

Getting There

Walk past the entrance level climbs uphill, and Wreckage Wall is on your left. Can't miss all the bolted routes.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wreckage Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 95 ● Hunger Pains Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 50 ● Obliteration Divine Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 80 ● Bionic Bitch Slap Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 50 ● Ticks Dig Me Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 65 ● Howler Monkey Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 30 ● Handy Capable Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 69 ● Destructomatic Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 42 ● Mr. Whipple's Wild Ride Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 29 ● Confusion Tactics Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 24 ● Triathlon Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 13 ● Invisible Flying Gargoyles Sport