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Wrasse 

Wrasse 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Munger
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 593
Submitted By: Mike Munger on May 7, 2005
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Description 

Approximately 50 feet right of Fintastic is a hand crack that starts from a loose rubble-covered ledge directly below a large horizontal roof with a chimney behind it. The crack changes from hands to fists and back to hands before going through a rotten band and then up to a double-bolt chain anchor on top of a large flake. This route took a lot of cleaning and needs more so I named it after a cleaner fish.


Protection 

Camalots, 2 red, 3 yellow, 3 blue, 1-2 grey. Double-bolt chain anchor.



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By Ian Havlick
Oct 30, 2011

okay route. kinda tough, mix of offwidth techniques and crack techniques. needs more cleaning, top broken section is a bit scary. a little sandy.

By Phill T
Apr 1, 2012

a touch more cleanup or some more ascents and this will be a nice addition. Cruxy awkward slot with a small roof (perfect #2 camalots) to start it off and then hands-wide hands-fists-a touch of OW if your hands are small. The wider stuff is low angle to keep it easy. Take a few #1s and a .75 to protect the last bit through a crummy band to the anchors up top. a 60M gets you down just fine. shiny new bolts/chains up top.