Wrangler 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Wolfe, D. Cook (1985) |
| Season: | not summer |
| Submitted By: | bernard on Sep 24, 2009 |
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Proper Steele belay.
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Description This route begins on dark reddish brown and gray rock. First moves are a kind of bouldery step up to a small pro-accepting slot. Balance, tip-toe, and Stem up a bit and reach up high for holds that then allow you to gain a small ledge. A jumbled dihedral is above followed by a amorphous fractured zone (cracks, partially detached features, and edges on face). Gain a position up under a small roof, then pull out and around on chickenheads and other large erosional features. Move up slabby, near vertical rock, light gray or white-ish sandstone....heading towards the arete proper, a kind of prow-like feature. Bouldering up the arete (trend left), find reachy but substantial and satisfying holds as you crank through to the finish.
The route doesn't appear to be that compelling from the ground, but is decent for the grade. The final section is very airy and scenic..... and similar to the (unlisted in the guidebook) route called Horned Devil at Sandrock.
Location Follow trail along cliff's base past Wolf Wall, past the routes, Gaia, then Hob Knob, and as you continue, the trail will divide...lower going below the small detached formation that has the route City of Worms on it, upper will pass through a hall-like feature formed by this detached rock......then you will pass Easy Street, the unnamed 5.9, Deborah, and then this route.
Right at this point on the trail is where you would choose to go high (Rustler, unnamed 5.8 dihedral) or low (unnamed 5.9 slab area, Jolly Roger, Evil Is, Golden Arch).
To locate this route on the cliff what you are looking for is roughly an arete feature but the arete shape does not become truly manifest until you reach about halfway up the route. The route starts on the wall just right of the general arete shape of this wall.
There is a pretty good size tree growing near the wall and the route's start. Just beyond this route's arete-like shape there is a grungy, brush-filled wide chimney-like wall section transitioning to a yellow and gray portion of cliff with black streaks, immediately followed by the large dihedral forming the aforementioned unnamed 5.8 route.
Protection standard Steele rack
a pair of ring anchors are to the right of the balcony-like feature at the top of the route
MM sludging past the pulpit thingy. Note the ass-i...
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