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Woza Moya
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | D. Hoffman & A. Long. July 1973. |
Page Views: | 1,787 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Gargano on Aug 25, 2013 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
Woza Moya follows the rightmost of two prominent corners located on the south face of Crescent Spire. The route begins immediately right of McTech Arete; following broken corners into a large dihedral system. The first two pitches offer fun climbing on quality rock, while the upper pitches were loose and dirty.
The first two pitches join McTech Arete at the 3rd belay, providing a good alternative start to McTech.
P1: Choose your own adventure. Select from a few fist/wide cracks starting at the base of a pillar located immediately up and right of McTech Arete. The leftmost corner offer nice fists to fingers in a corner. Gear belay at a stance below double cracks. 30m. 5.10-
P2: Hands to fingers in double cracks. Pull into a higher dihedral and climb through a fourth-class section. This is where the route meets McTech. Gear belay or bolted anchor. 50m. 5.9
P3: Move up and right into the large dihedral. Follow a corner through a trough and up a hand crack. Gear belay beneath the first roof. 30m. 5.8
P4: Climb cracks in the left wall to pass the roof. Gear belay on the left wall below the final roof. Lots of loose blocks, dirt and vegetation. 30m. 5.9
P5: Follow the dihedral to the top of the corner system OR traverse onto the left face via ledges and cracks and climb to meet the last pitch of McTech below the summit block/first rappel station. 30m. 5.8
The first two pitches join McTech Arete at the 3rd belay, providing a good alternative start to McTech.
P1: Choose your own adventure. Select from a few fist/wide cracks starting at the base of a pillar located immediately up and right of McTech Arete. The leftmost corner offer nice fists to fingers in a corner. Gear belay at a stance below double cracks. 30m. 5.10-
P2: Hands to fingers in double cracks. Pull into a higher dihedral and climb through a fourth-class section. This is where the route meets McTech. Gear belay or bolted anchor. 50m. 5.9
P3: Move up and right into the large dihedral. Follow a corner through a trough and up a hand crack. Gear belay beneath the first roof. 30m. 5.8
P4: Climb cracks in the left wall to pass the roof. Gear belay on the left wall below the final roof. Lots of loose blocks, dirt and vegetation. 30m. 5.9
P5: Follow the dihedral to the top of the corner system OR traverse onto the left face via ledges and cracks and climb to meet the last pitch of McTech below the summit block/first rappel station. 30m. 5.8
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