|Andy Boy Wall
The crux is the last roof. It may be slightly harder for shorter persons. Be sure to have a one foot sling for the bolt on the first roof (rope drag if a sport draw). If the third bolt of Bob's Big Boy is clipped at the start, a triple runner or equivalent is best to reduce rope drag.
The left wall to the right of Bob's Big Boy. Clip the first bolts of Bob's Big Boy then trend right and straight up through the roofs. Rap the route (be very careful if a 60m rope is used).
Gear and bolts. Cams 0.3 to number #4 (double .4) and a few medium stoppers. Better to have many two foot runners. Bolts and chains at the top.
FA First roof, Would You Like Fries With That
FA Second roof, Would You Like Fries With That
|By Bryan Pletta|
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
To clarify gear, I used two 0.4 Camalots on the FA not two #4s. You could also probably take two #3s, although I think the #4 works better at the top of the wide crack. The wide section is actually pretty fun, laybacking the edge and climbing stacked (safely wedged) blocks on jugs. The first roof is a hoot - completely improbable as you are standing below it, but everything is there when you need it.
|By Taylor Agiovlasitis|
Sep 17, 2013
Quite fun :) The first two roofs are definitely an ego boost, until you get your ass handed to you (or maybe it's pulled out from under you) on the third. Worth doing for sure :)