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Would you climb on this?
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By knowbuddy
Aug 20, 2014
A
This is a 9.1 Beal Joker. It was strictly my tower rope for a while so she's been around but taken care of. Noticed this little beauty mark on her and didn't think too much of it. I usually have the motto of "should be fine" but was wondering if anyone has experience climbing on a rope with a shot like this. Cheers
pic 1
pic 1


Pic B
Pic B


Pic tre
Pic tre

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By C. Archibald
Aug 20, 2014
Me on some bolted 10 in boulder canyon
Is it close to the end? I'd probably cut it off.

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By Craig Martin
From Park City
Aug 20, 2014
Captain Cairn kicker
Cut it off or retire it. I wouldn't climb on that except for top roping only.

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By knowbuddy
Aug 20, 2014
A
Too close to the middle or I'd woulda sliced her already

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By Mike Collins
Aug 20, 2014
first ever highball boulder problem. v0 in the buttermilks
I would definitely not use that

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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Aug 20, 2014
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
should be fine is generally an ok motto, but if it were mine I'd probably go ahead and retire it..

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By Dave Kos
Aug 20, 2014
Even if it is safe/strong now, it will get worse very quickly with use. My guess is the sheath probably wouldn't make it through a day of cragging.

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By beensandbagged
From R.I.
Aug 20, 2014
beer
If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.

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By knowbuddy
Aug 20, 2014
A
What about for the occasional time that a 70m is needed and on a climb well within my ability. I guess I'm thinking of towers or multi pitch routes that the only real time I'll put any force on the rope is rappelling. How fast will the sheath wear down from rappelling and is there a fairly high risk of the sheath slipping if the rope is used primarily as a rap line?

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By Daniel B.
From ABQ, NM
Aug 20, 2014
Pulling over the lip on Major Raspberry (5.10d).
beensandbagged wrote:
If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.


beensandbagged wrote:
If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.


This is so true the man said it twice.

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By matt j hartman
From lander, wy
Aug 20, 2014
retire

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By knowbuddy
Aug 20, 2014
A
Yea 10-4. Thanks for the replies

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By eli poss
From Chattanooga
Aug 20, 2014
If you are going to trash it I would pay for shipping and possibly more for you to chop it and send the other part. I've been looking for a length of dynamic rope but only need a couple of meters.

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By knowbuddy
Aug 20, 2014
A
Eli are you in Durango?

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By David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Aug 20, 2014
I'm not one for retiring things that have wear -- but a core-shot is pretty standard for retire the rope, or at least, that section of the rope.

If its the middle of a 70m -- maybe you've got a couple gym ropes out of it or something. Or maybe replace a beaten up "permanent" line with it somewhere.

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By Patrick Shyvers
From Fort Collins, CO
Aug 20, 2014
Me
Cut it in half, keep for simulclimbing on low grade alpine stuff or glacier travel? 60m is a lot for that stuff.

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By Mr. Wonderful
Aug 20, 2014
Mr. Wonderful
Cut out the core shot, tie a knot, and with rope stretch, you still have a 70.

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By knowbuddy
Aug 20, 2014
A
Mr. Wonderful wrote:
Cut out the core shot, tie a knot, and with rope stretch, you still have a 70.


That's what I'm talking about

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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 20, 2014
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.
see the white
death's delight

view the core
climb no more

inner strand
will not stand

center cut?
save your butt

I can go on with this...

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By Chris Schmidt
From Grand Junction
Aug 20, 2014
is your life worth less than $200?

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By Jacob Smith
From Mill Creek, WA
Aug 21, 2014
Chair Peak, top of first pitch
beensandbagged wrote:
If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.


This one has always bugged me. If I treated my equipment this way I would have wasted all my money on ropes, harnesses, and belay biners long ago, not to mention slings on cams, extendable draws, PASs...etc.
Most of the time it's fine. I can think of exactly two bad accidents that happened because someone used equipment that should have been retired, and both were no-brainer, what-were-they-thinking, kind of mistakes.
My personal suspicion is that this mantra is propagated by gear companies who profit from the over-caution of consumer climbers.
My life may be worth more to me than the price of a new rope every 6 months, but that doesn't mean I can afford to spend like that.

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By eli poss
From Chattanooga
Aug 21, 2014
I'm currently in Chattanooga TN but will be in Durango starting in September. Why?

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By eli poss
From Chattanooga
Aug 21, 2014
I'm currently in Chattanooga TN but will be in Durango starting in September. Why?

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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Aug 21, 2014
My guideline is once the core becomes visible, it needs to be retired (or end cut off). So I would say no, dont use it.

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By Chris Rice
Aug 21, 2014
If (or when) you take a long whipper and are on your way down this might flash into your mind - "I'm going to die because I was too cheap to retire this darn rope". Or maybe you won't :).

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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Aug 21, 2014
In a word: hell no

Full tension will make that sheath retract quicker than a condom on OG Mudbone

The exposed core isnt going to snap instantly, but staring at a meter of 8 mil core in your face after a fall is pretty sobering.

why you using a 9.1 as a working rope anyway?

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