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Would you climb on this?
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Aug 20, 2014
A
This is a 9.1 Beal Joker. It was strictly my tower rope for a while so she's been around but taken care of. Noticed this little beauty mark on her and didn't think too much of it. I usually have the motto of "should be fine" but was wondering if anyone has experience climbing on a rope with a shot like this. Cheers
pic 1
pic 1


Pic B
Pic B


Pic tre
Pic tre
knowbuddy
Joined Jul 19, 2010
211 points
Aug 20, 2014
Me redpointing Power Series. This route is amazing...
Is it close to the end? I'd probably cut it off. C. Archibald
Joined Apr 15, 2012
656 points
Aug 20, 2014
Captain Cairn kicker
Cut it off or retire it. I wouldn't climb on that except for top roping only. Craig Martin
From Park City
Joined Jan 24, 2004
1,119 points
Aug 20, 2014
A
Too close to the middle or I'd woulda sliced her already knowbuddy
Joined Jul 19, 2010
211 points
Aug 20, 2014
me on hard as an oosik 12a at farley ledge
I would definitely not use that Mike Collins
Joined May 18, 2013
38 points
Aug 20, 2014
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
should be fine is generally an ok motto, but if it were mine I'd probably go ahead and retire it.. Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Aug 20, 2014
Even if it is safe/strong now, it will get worse very quickly with use. My guess is the sheath probably wouldn't make it through a day of cragging. Dave Kos
Joined Jan 31, 2011
67 points
Aug 20, 2014
beer
If you are asking questions it is time for it to go. beensandbagged
From R.I.
Joined Oct 20, 2013
11 points
Aug 20, 2014
A
What about for the occasional time that a 70m is needed and on a climb well within my ability. I guess I'm thinking of towers or multi pitch routes that the only real time I'll put any force on the rope is rappelling. How fast will the sheath wear down from rappelling and is there a fairly high risk of the sheath slipping if the rope is used primarily as a rap line? knowbuddy
Joined Jul 19, 2010
211 points
Aug 20, 2014
Pulling over the lip on Major Raspberry (5.10d).
beensandbagged wrote:
If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.


beensandbagged wrote:
If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.


This is so true the man said it twice.
Daniel B.
From ABQ, NM
Joined Mar 12, 2012
11 points
Aug 20, 2014
retire matt j hartman
From Leavenworth WA
Joined May 19, 2007
271 points
Aug 20, 2014
A
Yea 10-4. Thanks for the replies knowbuddy
Joined Jul 19, 2010
211 points
Aug 20, 2014
If you are going to trash it I would pay for shipping and possibly more for you to chop it and send the other part. I've been looking for a length of dynamic rope but only need a couple of meters. eli poss
From Durango, sometimes Chattanooga
Joined May 9, 2014
84 points
Aug 20, 2014
A
Eli are you in Durango? knowbuddy
Joined Jul 19, 2010
211 points
Aug 20, 2014
I'm not one for retiring things that have wear -- but a core-shot is pretty standard for retire the rope, or at least, that section of the rope.

If its the middle of a 70m -- maybe you've got a couple gym ropes out of it or something. Or maybe replace a beaten up "permanent" line with it somewhere.
David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Joined Aug 18, 2010
8 points
Aug 20, 2014
Me
Cut it in half, keep for simulclimbing on low grade alpine stuff or glacier travel? 60m is a lot for that stuff. Patrick Shyvers
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 16, 2013
11 points
Aug 20, 2014
Mr. Wonderful
Cut out the core shot, tie a knot, and with rope stretch, you still have a 70. Mr. Wonderful
Joined Apr 10, 2014
11 points
Aug 20, 2014
A
Mr. Wonderful wrote:
Cut out the core shot, tie a knot, and with rope stretch, you still have a 70.


That's what I'm talking about
knowbuddy
Joined Jul 19, 2010
211 points
Aug 20, 2014
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
see the white
death's delight

view the core
climb no more

inner strand
will not stand

center cut?
save your butt

I can go on with this...
Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,496 points
Aug 20, 2014
is your life worth less than $200? Chris Schmidt
From Grand Junction
Joined Nov 29, 2012
0 points
Aug 21, 2014
Chair Peak, top of first pitch
beensandbagged wrote:
If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.


This one has always bugged me. If I treated my equipment this way I would have wasted all my money on ropes, harnesses, and belay biners long ago, not to mention slings on cams, extendable draws, PASs...etc.
Most of the time it's fine. I can think of exactly two bad accidents that happened because someone used equipment that should have been retired, and both were no-brainer, what-were-they-thinking, kind of mistakes.
My personal suspicion is that this mantra is propagated by gear companies who profit from the over-caution of consumer climbers.
My life may be worth more to me than the price of a new rope every 6 months, but that doesn't mean I can afford to spend like that.
Jacob Smith
From Mill Creek, WA
Joined Aug 10, 2013
61 points
Aug 21, 2014
I'm currently in Chattanooga TN but will be in Durango starting in September. Why? eli poss
From Durango, sometimes Chattanooga
Joined May 9, 2014
84 points
Aug 21, 2014
I'm currently in Chattanooga TN but will be in Durango starting in September. Why? eli poss
From Durango, sometimes Chattanooga
Joined May 9, 2014
84 points
Administrator
Aug 21, 2014
My guideline is once the core becomes visible, it needs to be retired (or end cut off). So I would say no, dont use it. 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Aug 21, 2014
If (or when) you take a long whipper and are on your way down this might flash into your mind - "I'm going to die because I was too cheap to retire this darn rope". Or maybe you won't :). Chris Rice
Joined Jan 11, 2013
15 points
Aug 21, 2014
A
What makes you think I'm using it as a work horse? knowbuddy
Joined Jul 19, 2010
211 points


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