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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face
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Adrift T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Amtrak T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Between The Ways S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Caveman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Entrance Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Fantastic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Fleet Feet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Great Brown Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hook and Bladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Last Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Orange Blossom Special T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Permission Granite T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Purple Daze T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pyromania T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Requiem to a Dream T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Rock Island Line (Grand Funk alt. finish), The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Saturday Night Live T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sufficiently Breathless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Teflon Trip T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Dreams T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 985 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Johnny O on Aug 28, 2015 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
Start just to the left of Father Knows Best. The route mostly follows a dark water stain straight up to the tree ledge. I started just to the right of the groove on some decent holds and climbed up until there was a flake to my left. I stepped across the groove to the flake and placed two small cams so that I would have some protection before the bolt.
It is also possible to start at the crack that is usually used for Father Knows Best and climb to the left at the top of the crack. This way looked a little easier and allows for cam or nut placements in the small crack.
Once I placed my cams, I stepped back across the groove and headed straight for the lone bolt. Keep in mind that this bolt is even with the first bolt on Father Knows Best and due to the slope of the ground, this route is a little bit taller. A running belay is a must on this route. I did not need it but it was nice knowing it was there. There is no more protection at all past the bolt and no way to escape. I carefully followed the dark rock up to a large block on the tree ledge and moved right to use the belay rings above Father Knows Best. The climbing is a little stiff and just as difficult or more than Father Knows Best. Do not attempt climbing this route if you are not comfortable with the grade or the long runout. A fall from up high would put you on the ground without a running belay, maybe even with it.
It is also possible to start at the crack that is usually used for Father Knows Best and climb to the left at the top of the crack. This way looked a little easier and allows for cam or nut placements in the small crack.
Once I placed my cams, I stepped back across the groove and headed straight for the lone bolt. Keep in mind that this bolt is even with the first bolt on Father Knows Best and due to the slope of the ground, this route is a little bit taller. A running belay is a must on this route. I did not need it but it was nice knowing it was there. There is no more protection at all past the bolt and no way to escape. I carefully followed the dark rock up to a large block on the tree ledge and moved right to use the belay rings above Father Knows Best. The climbing is a little stiff and just as difficult or more than Father Knows Best. Do not attempt climbing this route if you are not comfortable with the grade or the long runout. A fall from up high would put you on the ground without a running belay, maybe even with it.
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