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Worthy Whoopsie S 

Worthy Whoopsie 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 185'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: G. Kaplan and J. Garrett
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,370
Submitted By: glen kaplan on Jul 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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Garrett resting half way up the 2nd pitch. Matt &...

Description 

Worthwhile addition to the area circuit. Begin on typical quartzite past 3 bolts, then travel through some fractured lower angled rock to the upper smooth and steep shield. Careful about clipping bolt#6 as a fall with slack out could land you on the sloping ramp below. Pull the powerful final moves to the mantel/highstep and bolt#7. The TR anchors are a little hard to see (to the right) until you are on them (TR Variation is 5.9). Use 2-ft runners for best results!

Full Value Variation (5.11-) continues up to the left from bolt#7, past 4 more closely spaced clips through some steeper terrain to an awesome belay nook/ledge. Pitch 2 travels up low angle corner to loose step and gully before the final overhanging arete. 5 bolts worth of heel-hooking, knee bars, and laybacks up the steep but juggy arete see you to the top ledge and glue-in rap anchor (Or, it is enticing to climb easier terrain to the left of the arete and make reachy, blind clips to the right ~.8/.9 ish).

FYI: fun top-rope variation (Worthy Weakness, also 5.9) climbs the steeper/blocky arete about 6-ft. left of p1 to great move through roof to crack (this hasn't really been cleaned too well so...)

Location 

10 ft. to the right (north) of 'Daily Diatribe'
30 ft. to the left (south) of 'Coral Bells Arete'





Protection 

TR variation = 7 bolts to 2 chain anchor (on right)
Full Value variation = p1: 11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor p2: 6 bolts to glue-ins and rap anchor


Photos of Worthy Whoopsie Slideshow Add Photo
Kris P.RN seemed to enjoy this one...
Kris P.RN seemed to enjoy this one...
yes!...its a crag!
yes!...its a crag!
taken direclty below the route (weird perspective)
taken direclty below the route (weird perspective)
View from top of pitch two.
View from top of pitch two.
Edd at the anchors...
Edd at the anchors...
Moving up the second pitch
BETA PHOTO: Moving up the second pitch
From the anchors on MEGA, you can see that there are rappel anchors for a second pitch of Worthy Whoopsie.  After climbing the first pitch a few times, it is beginning to grow on me, but the second pitch is not "worthy", so it must be the "whoops" of the route.  It was super easy climbing over bad choss.  For choss mining adventurers, you'll love it!  Bring a selection of nuts and big cams.
BETA PHOTO: From the anchors on MEGA, you can see that there a...
me on Worthy Weakness
me on Worthy Weakness
ummm...it's cool at IC...
ummm...it's cool at IC...
Made a topo for Mega and Worthy Whoopsie
BETA PHOTO: Made a topo for Mega and Worthy Whoopsie
Ropes on Worthy Whoopsie
Ropes on Worthy Whoopsie
Top of second pitch
Top of second pitch
Lei focusing on making the clip#6, Whoopsy
Lei focusing on making the clip#6, Whoopsy
Pitch two, following, yes she's on belay.
Pitch two, following, yes she's on belay.
clip#6 <br />be careful not to blow it here as a yard sale will probably land you on the small ledge below (but it is all good if you take a swan dive, i.e. jump back)
clip#6
be careful not to blow it here as a y...

Comments on Worthy Whoopsie Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 20, 2014
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 1, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The crux clips were placed weird for me. Felt just as hard as Hollow Man. The start is dicey, so a moderate leader may want a crash pad or a stick clip. Good rock and some good exposure.
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 2, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hey glen if we climbed this august 1's would talia and i have the 9th ascent? :) Definitely hard climbing at the first two bolts and then getting to the last one. I climbed it again on toprope and still felt like it had some 5.9 moves on it.
By James Garrett
Aug 7, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I agree, I even got scared getting to the first bolt clip and backed off and took the TR! This is most definitely NOT a route for the beginning 5.8 or 5.9 leader...sorry, Glen. Why rap drilled routes have to be bold, daring, and dangerous is beyond me. We should all be inspired by the moderate master guru of the 60 footers...Gregorio Martinez....now, he knows how to bolt a 5.8 route!
By Double D SLC
Aug 12, 2007

I just have to weigh in with the comments of 5.8 and 5.9 being a "beginner" route.
5.9 used to be it, add a plus if you knew it was really hard or funky. I don't see a point of putting a bolt too low either, unless you plan on stepping on it to get up to the "real" clip. Stick clip it if you need to, but what's the point of having a low clip that won't keep you from hitting the ground? ie. Dog Pile or Winkey & Waxman.
By James Garrett
Aug 12, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Now I feel like a real gumby, but Glen did reposition the lower bolts and added another one. I for one think it is all for the better? No need for a stick clip DoubleD.
By zoso
Aug 31, 2007

I've looked at this every time I've been in the area and wondered when someone would equip this. This route is a lot of fun and much more sustained than MEGA. Well engineered me thinks.
By James Garrett
Sep 16, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Glen's concern about the Red tag was completely ignored....it's all good. This area gets so much traffic, I am sure it was repeated innocently enough. I repeated both pitches on Whoopsie today and it felt pretty solid, but rapping the line takes you into the gully on the right (north) and this is quite loose in places. The first pitch is excellent and has been extended to a two bolt belay further up the arete. Then the second pitch gets even better and climbs the hard side of the arete (5.11a we think) to another two bolt belay on a great ledge. Glen and I have not been able to properly trundle the loose rocks in the gully as so many people climb here on a seemingly regular basis. This was Glen's project and find from the beginning and I thank him for bringing me on board, especially to be able to add this second pitch....pretty rare and pretty cool in BCC at Challenge Buttress.

So, I guess my message is...please wear a helmet here until it cleans up more and especially just walking around the base of the cliff...as people rappelling or lowering off Whoopsie or MEGA may knock some stuff off....we would hate to see or hear about somebody getting beaned. Thanks!
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 18, 2007

Done is done...although there are still too many lurkers on or near the 2nd pitch for comfort...I will just have to make it up there at night or hopefully mid-week (there are people there every time I go...)

2nd pitch is great but it is certainly contrived...oh well...the harder moves are definitely in the e.z. .11 range and require committment to keeping it hard (i.e. it is real easy to just hike up left, over the arete and onto much easier terrain...)

James and I thought this was the best compromise as one could still (kinda) lead the route the easy way, via the low angle arete (left side) or follow the harder way (overhanging right side)...either way gives some unique moves and exposure and we only needed to bolt one line, not two that were real close together...
plus the belay ledges are sweet...

The rappel is pretty good but you need to be careful about looseness in gully...still.

WEAR A HELMET!!!
By Leroy Fielding
May 26, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Only did the TR variation, but definitely a good addition to the area. Fun route that grabs your attention right away and keeps you thinking the whole time. Good stuff.
By JBONE
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I did this climb the other day with the standard challenge buttress circuit. The first pitch is worthy, but the second pitch really forces the strength of the line. It looks cool, but is very contrived.
By notmyname
From: Stony Brook, NY
Apr 24, 2009

I really enjoyed the 1st pitch of this route! Awesome awesome line.
The 2nd pitch is incedibly fun, but incredibly contrived - which is fine since our entire sport is pretty contrived and stupid....as long as it's fun.
Be careful lowering/rappelling from the 2nd to the 1st pitch anchors - still some loose rock in the gully.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 26, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Nice route with cool extended finish. Lacking prior knowledge and leading on a very skinny 9.2 cord I elected to belay my partner up at the top of P1 before venturing off to the second pitch (all 6 bolts of it). No way would he have heard me if I popped off and down the dihedral I'd go clanging away as he paid out the rope. Ultimately, he led through and pulled the finishin holds.

The route overall is cool and the extension a must do. Questionable if you could get down with a single 70m cord. We had a chopped 65 meter and there was no way... had to decend using the intermediate anchor.
By Jeff Guest
From: Coalville, UT
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The 1st pitch is 5.9, the 2nd pitch is 5.11
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Aug 17, 2009

I did the first pitch a few times right after this route was set. I seem to remember there being a few odd clips (weight is shifted one way, the clip is an arm's length out the other way >.<), but nothing really bad. Sounds like a few of these issues may have been resolved, anyways.

It's a fun climb, just make sure you can lead before you try it :P
By James Logan
Jun 29, 2010

This is a great two pitch climb. The first pitch is fun enough, but by far the highlight is the roof/arete 170 above your belay below. The exposure is great on the roof and it's one heck of lead for a 5.11-ish climber. This is one of my favorite climbs at CB, but you have to hit the second pitch!

P.S.
The 1st Pitch is NOT 5.9 by CB standards (unless you cheat right, it probably should be considered by most a 5.9+/5.10-). Granted, it might feel like a true 5.9 in other canyons, the 1st pitch cruxes are more difficult than any of the other 5.9s at CB so I see a lot of climbers in over their heads on this climb. In other words, like said above, you probably don't want to lead this one unless you are comfortable tackling 5.10s. This is especially true if you climb bolt to bolt (center of your body passing over the bolt).
By James Garrett
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Are you THE Jim Logan? At any rate.....damned cool regardless, curious I guess....
By Tim Golden
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 19, 2011

I would agree with James about the first pitch which is all that I did on this. It is probably in 5.9+ or 5.10- territory. My friend, who had just climbed Hollow Man (5.9 around the corner)without any problems couldn't make it to the first bolt on top rope. I'm a pretty solid 5.9 leader and I had some trouble around the 5th or 6th bolt. I cheated to the right and did a really long reach to clip the bolt. I did it right on the second try on top rope without any problems though. The bottom is also a little hairy getting started, so I would recommend stick clipping if you are a only a 5.9 leader. It's a fun route for sure.
By Dashclimbsrocks
From: Orem, UT
Jun 2, 2013

Wear a helmet if doing both pitches and be so careful if there are others at the crag. Tons of lose rock, could easily get knocked off and really hurt someone if you're not paying attention.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
May 20, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Fun route, nice exposure. As stated, first bolt is tricky. Only did first pitch. Felt like 5.9+ to me.

EDIT - did second pitch today. Second pitch felt much easier than 5.11-. Maybe 5.10+. If you managed the first pitch, you will have no trouble with the second. Amazing view from the top.