This problem starts sitting on obvious good edges and breaks right towards the arete via tiny crimps underclings, and toe hooks.
Sit start at the center of the only boulder in the canyon, on the north-facing overhang that faces the creek, new the mine cart. It is 60 meters downstream of the Pool.
Jul 2, 2011
This problem was done in 1994 and was rated V7. Maybe it got harder.
|By Erik Durgin|
Sep 6, 2011
Really? By who and what was it called?
Nov 16, 2011
The problem was done by myself and called Worthy. This was during the early days of route development in the canyon. Maybe I was climbing harder than I thought. I'll have to make a trip over and try it again. Could be a hold or two broke, for it's hard for me to believe if Chris Schulte rated this as he did then the problem is in the original state as when I climbed it. Doubting his talent is impossible.
|By Erik Durgin|
Jan 12, 2012
That's awesome! It must'a broke since then though, cuz it's hard as shit! The moves are full span on very small edges.
It's a amazing line in an incredible setting, I highly recommend anyone to go check it out!
Noah Zind walking Go-Go Ibari:
Aug 10, 2012
Was just over there and tried the problem again. Different problem than it was in '94. Couple of holds certainly got smaller. Hard as shit is right.
|By chris schulte|
Nov 13, 2012
Heya S. Price-
Thanks for the history! '94 was the first year I ever climbed, and it was years before I climbed this thing. I broke 2 holds on it as I was trying to climb it, at the start and on the face, calling for a new sequence.
Funny enough, when I did it, I called it V7 too, in its current state. I must admit, I have come back to many problems in the DGO area over the years and wondered what I was thinking when I graded them. Tho we did A LOT of "vision questing" in those days, and grains of salt must be applied, it seems.... :D
Currently, I've heard V9-10, leaning towards 10 if you're under 5'10".
The "direct-ish" starting in the same place and going more up before cutting to the arete is still a project. Ryan Nelson did the one that breaks left from the sit, calling it V7, tho a little crunchy.
What a cool spot!!!
Feb 25, 2013
This problem in its current state should be credited to Chris only.