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Routes in Checkerboard Wall
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Checkmate T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Circus Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cross-trainer T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Green Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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King Me T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Knight's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lone Piton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Opening Moves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pawn's Promotion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Punch In The Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Queen's Gambit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Squares T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ring Leader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ring Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sotol Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Worth the Effort T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Head |
| Page Views: | 815 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on Mar 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Two pitches of good climbing including an exciting off-width crack that escapes under a roof. The first pitch has a deceptive start: the first crack is 15ft off the ground and it isn't immediately obvious how to gain the crack. Couple this with an awkward fall into a scraggly tree if you don't get gear into the first crack and you might be intimidated. The moves are no harder than 5.9 and by making an awkward reach (easier if you're tall) you can protect the first moves before taking any big risks. Once in the crack cruise up another 70ft to a natural belay beneath a roof.
The second pitch tackles the off-width crack exiting the roof to the right. Once around the roof the crack continues for 40 ft gradually narrowing until you reach a small overlap. An exposed move at the overlap gains easier climbing to the top. An easier variation to avoid the 5.10 off-width is to traverse to the left side of the roof and exit up a 5.8 off-width.
The second pitch tackles the off-width crack exiting the roof to the right. Once around the roof the crack continues for 40 ft gradually narrowing until you reach a small overlap. An exposed move at the overlap gains easier climbing to the top. An easier variation to avoid the 5.10 off-width is to traverse to the left side of the roof and exit up a 5.8 off-width.
Location
This route is on the south-western end of the Checkerboard wall. The start of the climb is reached by scrambling up a tree-filled gully. The route is directly under a distinctive but small roof with the off-width crux clearly visible.
Protection
The business section isn't terribly long, maybe 30 ft overall with the crux being the first 15. I recommend at least two #4 camelots and for those who struggle with off-width, a #5 camelot is also good to have in order to place a piece right at the crux lip.
A fixed hex is right under the roof and can supplement the belay. Alternatively, the 5.8 variation has a bolted anchor at its base, which can also be used to top-rope a direct start variation at 5.11.
A fixed hex is right under the roof and can supplement the belay. Alternatively, the 5.8 variation has a bolted anchor at its base, which can also be used to top-rope a direct start variation at 5.11.
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