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worst anchors ever....
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By Mike Thompson
From Manchester NH
Jul 18, 2009
cereal killer 5.11b
so i was reading a different topic on a different forum and i saw a picture of one of the worst anchors i had ever seen. so i decided to get others input :) what is the worst anchor you have ever seen? fixed or placed by your gumby leader that you were horrified to climb up to :) post away!

this is the anchor i saw :)

Rappel anchor found in Poudre Canyon
Rappel anchor found in Poudre Canyon

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By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2009
Bastille Crack Final Pitch
Got run out nearly one pitch up the second flatiron while also running into some pretty horrific rope drag. I couldn't take another step foward and was not able to downclimb. After about 45 minutes of struggling to move a thunderstorm came in. In the pouring rain I managed to get 2 or 3 stoppers in placements that would have never held any type of fall. The placements were so bad I didn't even want to weight them. My partner made the decision to climb up to me even though we both knew I wouldn't be able to catch him if he fell. I think I was belaying him with 1 hand. Eventually he climbed past me and set a better anchor (about 15 feet higher there was bomber gear) Instead of cleaning the anchor, I just shook my waist back and forth a few times and all the protection fell out.

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By Allen Hill
From FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jul 18, 2009
Slick Rock put in
baby angle
baby angle

it looks worse than it was

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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Jul 18, 2009
South of Windy Peak
Here's a pic of the old anchor on Hop Route in Red Rock at about 175' up.
This is the belay station at the top of Hop Route....
This is the belay station at the top of Hop Route.


Someone came along and chopped it so you have to climb a second pitch and do the sketchy walk-off now. That was two years ago, I don't know if the situation has improved.

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By Ben Kiessel
Jul 18, 2009
2003
Old anchor crappy anchor. (Photo taken by Jesse Br...
Old anchor crappy anchor.
(Photo taken by Jesse Brown)

The rappel anchor on church rock in Moab. Luckily I took this down and replaced it with this bomber anchor.
New bomber anchor (Photo taken by Jesse Brown)
New bomber anchor
(Photo taken by Jesse Brown)

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By Guy H.
From Fort Collins CO
Jul 18, 2009
Once you have Black, you will fear to go back...
I think this one must make the the list.

Pin at the top of the second pitch; I'd say it cou...
Pin at the top of the second pitch; I'd say it could hold a falling cat tied to a bungee cord.

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By Greg Hand
From Golden, CO
Jul 18, 2009
Papa Smurf
Mike,

You stole my picture!!
We saw that anchor while putting in new routes in the Poudre.
We have left it there for historical (hysterical?) purpose.
Someone must have really been ready to die to have used it.

Greg

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By Mike Thompson
From Manchester NH
Jul 19, 2009
cereal killer 5.11b
Greg Hand wrote:
Mike, You stole my picture!! We saw that anchor while putting in new routes in the Poudre. We have left it there for historical (hysterical?) purpose. Someone must have really been ready to die to have used it. Greg


haha sorry greg :)
i was reading the other forum and it inspired me and i had to put something up haha :) but thanks for the background :)

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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Jul 19, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
McHugh probably wins.

When I was 16 and stupidly invincible, my partner--also 16--and I bailed from about 6 pitches up something in Yosemite. There was nothing fixed on the first anchor and to save $, we left two pieces: a stopper and the knot in a tied runner. They both looked pretty good.

With another buddy we top roped the Geronimo finish in Joshua Tree off of one good hex. We thought it looked solid.

Nowadays, If I don't have at least three pieces I'm in love with, I sink three or four more.

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By Evan1984
Jul 19, 2009
^^^Haha, yeah, how many of us look back at some of the things we did when we were younger and dumber and pucker a little bit?

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By Joe Santambrogio
Jul 19, 2009
on top of the 3rd, in the mist
Mike McHugh wrote "Not the best competition to win. Where do I collect my Piolet de Merde?"

My french is pretty rusty, but isn't that french for pile of shit?

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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Jul 19, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
Mike McHugh wrote:
Not the best competition to win. Where do I collect my Piolet de Merde?

Merde...is that piton of death or piton of sh*t? Or do the French enjoy a wry ironic cognate?

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By Braxtron
From ...
Jul 19, 2009
Nearing the end of Escuelar de calor, a great rout...
Luke's pic of the PBR anchor wins, hands down & bottoms up!

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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Jul 19, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
no...morte! Sh*t wins. Joe called it.

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By AnthonyM
Jul 19, 2009
Maroon Bells-Bell Cord Couloir
Along the same lines....
How many of us can still recall the first time we looked up and/or down and saw a piece we had placed fall out??

Mine wasn't too bad---at least I had placed a bomber piece before looking down and seing the nut wiggle out...

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By Allen Hill
From FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jul 19, 2009
Slick Rock put in
There's a route in Escalante canyon we called "The Blow out crack." It's a classic six or seven inch off width. Hard eleven maybe even a twelve. Anyhow after working on this thing one winter afternoon Chuck Grossman stacked some hexs at our high point and rappelled off them and we left the rope fixed. The next day the rope and the anchors where all in a nice pile at the base of the rock. The only explanation was that the wind had knocked the pieces out of the crack. Thus the name.

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By Buff Johnson
Jul 19, 2009
smiley face
first place goes to a top rope through only webbing and then telling everyone on national tv, no, I really am a moron.

cliff bar as a snow anchor -- beat that allen,

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By Rich Farnham
Jul 19, 2009
Just came across this picture.

Anchors on Castles Made of Sand that could use rep...
Anchors on Castles Made of Sand that could use replacing. The wires are actually glued behind the washer making them a touch better.


Doesn't beat some of the others in this thread, but maybe gets an honorable mention...

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By Joe Santambrogio
Jul 19, 2009
on top of the 3rd, in the mist
IDK Rich, if you read the caption

"Anchors on Castles Made of Sand that could use replacing. The wires are actually glued behind the washer making them a touch better."

I mean they are glued, that makes them better, so i don't think it counts.

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By Rich Farnham
Jul 19, 2009
Hey Joe! It's been a while--hope all's well.

Joe Santambrogio wrote:
IDK Rich, if you read the caption "Anchors on Castles Made of Sand that could use replacing. The wires are actually glued behind the washer making them a touch better." I mean they are glued, that makes them better, so i don't think it counts.


Oh well, in that case...

Maybe the ARI folks will start using this method. Rather than their typical announcement ("bolts replaced with 1/2-inch SS anchors donated by ARI") we would start to see: "manky old stoppers donated by..."

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By Pete Spri
Aug 7, 2009
A partner and I did a less-done (read: almost never) ridge in Big Cottonwood Canyon a few days ago.

My partner got to the top of the 3rd pitch to set up a belay... the area was slanted towards the cliff with a bunch of several ton boulders on it. After checking them out, he picked the second largest one and tied the climbing rope around it because it was too big for runners.

I get up, get the gear, and get ready to take the lead... suddenly, the largest ~2ton block (the largest one) that my partner had been going to sling starts sliding... zomg, HUGE slide.

Moved his belay ASAP. Scary moment, realizing that if he had slung the other one, both of us could have been pulled down the cliff... and mostly because it was a time bomb. He had stood on it earlier, testing it out... just took 5 more mins to actually go. Definately a good wake-up call.

Natural anchors can be some of the most unpredictable :Q

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By Brian in SLC
Aug 7, 2009
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
springs wrote:
A partner and I did a less-done (read: almost never) ridge in Big Cottonwood Canyon a few days ago. My partner got to the top of the 3rd pitch to set up a belay... the area was slanted towards the cliff with a bunch of several ton boulders on it.


You might be surprised that the Standard Ridge gets done a fair amount. Its on several folks (ahem) solo list. Guess those folks don't worry about anchors.

I find it fairly solid, but, your situation sounded scary as heck, and, I'm glad that rockfall didn't get you or the masses down below at the west end of Challenge or hiking over from Narcolepsy/Strone.

Yikes!

Lessons to be learned perhaps...

Cheers, and, glad you guys are ok.

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By Aaron G
From Driggs, ID
Aug 7, 2009
The boots felt better in the store than after 20 m...
This one might actually be bomber compared to some on this thread.... but humorous nonetheless. Rapped off this in the Dolomites. It was a huge rod of steel pounded in, then bent to make a nice hook.
great anchor in the dolomites
great anchor in the dolomites

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By Pete Spri
Aug 7, 2009
Brian in SLC wrote:
You might be surprised that the Standard Ridge gets done a fair amount. Its on several folks (ahem) solo list. Guess those folks don't worry about anchors. I find it fairly solid, but, your situation sounded scary as heck, and, I'm glad that rockfall didn't get you or the masses down below at the west end of Challenge or hiking over from Narcolepsy/Strone. Yikes! Lessons to be learned perhaps... Cheers, and, glad you guys are ok.


Indeed. The day this happened was the same day the guy fell and broke both of his ankles on Narcolepsy... kept hearing sirens, but we knew the rock hadn't made it down all the way to the trail. Crazy.

Lessons certainly learned. For me: Don't assume massive boulders are all stable. To test a boulder as an anchor, shove on it with all of your power, and don't do this while standing under it before you know if it will slide or not!

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By jcntrl
From Smoulder, CO
Aug 7, 2009
springs wrote:
To test a boulder as an anchor, shove on it with all of your power, and don't do this while standing under it before you know if it will slide or not!


I do not like this idea. What if someone had decided to "test" the Rewritten block as an anchor, and it tumbled down and landed on somebody below? (That happened, obviously, except it wasn't being tested as an anchor, and any injuries sustained were minor, fortunately!)

What if the block you're testing shifts, tumbles, and cuts your rope? What if it hits your belayer, and/or somebody else below? What if, when it shifts, it takes more rocks with it that were dependent upon its stability that you happen to be standing on, and now there's a rockslide happening and ALL of the above happen, including you tumbling to an undesirable landing?

I'm all for making sure your anchor is solid and redundant, but I really don't like building anchors on boulders. I can't see what they're anchored to; and "faith in friction" just doesn't cut it when it comes to building a solid anchor. If that is the ONLY option, then maybe I can climb higher or downclimb a few moves and build a belay elsewhere (hanging, if need be.)

If that's not an option, then I start freaking out and waving my hands wildly and pray to Bones to send Spock with his rocket boots to save my ass. ;)

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By Jamie Henrichsen
From Lake Morena, CA
Oct 21, 2009
Mexican Border Fence
I didn't get a picture of it but last weekend I was climbing in Joshua tree over at Atlantis Wall in the Lost Horse area. There was a family climbing a near me on Men with cows heads.

As I was cleaning my anchors and getting ready to walk off the top I noticed the trad anchor for their top rope which the whole family had been using had one locking biner in with two placements on short slings. What was alarming was the gate was weighted on a sharp ledge.

When I politely notified the father who had set the anchor that maybe his biner had rotated and it was on its gate at the edge of a ledge he acknowledged this as something he already knew. While still cleaning my anchors he came up to set a new top rope anchor. In small talk I told him that my route was open if he wanted it. Some how he didn't hear me. When I left I told him to have a safe day. Still didn't hear me. Weird...

Believe me I was not trying to be a jerk at all. Everybody there was super nice and cool. How do tell someone that you are concerned for their life and safety of their family? I understand that we all do some things a little differently but there are some things that you really try not to ever do. Or is it just me?

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