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Milky Way Wall
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Wormhole S 

Wormhole 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tristan Higbee and Christian Burrell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 261
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Left most line on the left side of milky way. The start is still a little loose but it getting better. The upper slab has perfect rock but the holds can be a little tricky. Don't be afraid to use the "Wormhole." A shallow 2-finger pocket to the right of the first bolt on the clean upper slab.

Protection 

6 bolts and chains


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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jul 12, 2008

Getting to it (scrambling up the loose dirt, etc) kinda sucks. The route starts out on good crimps, up to a cool little slot part, and then onto the rad, clean upper headwall/slab.

We named this route after a really neat, shallow, 2-finger pocket at the start of the headwall.
By Michael Davidson
From: San Diego, CA
May 4, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Definitely a little loose on the bottom half, but the crux (at least for my climbing partner and I) on the face above was clean. Worth doing.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Aug 12, 2014

From the "wormhole" I initially tried to punch right and up, which was really tenuous and hard(er than 10b). Eventually I went just barely to the left of the bolt line, still using the small shallow pocket but utilizing a very positive side pull on the left to good crimps and it felt more like 9+/10a. Whichever way the 10b grade is based on, I found going left to be less scary and still in line with the bolts.