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Worm Drive 

Worm Drive 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Uwe Schneider,Craig Taylor August 1993
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: Bob A on Jun 8, 2012
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Description 

If you like thin face climbing, then this climb is for you! The crux is between the first and second bolt. You may want to use a locker on the first bolt instead of a draw due to groundfall potential. The bolts on this pitch were updated in 2011. There is a second pitch at 5.6 that I have not added a description for due to old bolts that need updating and a general route cleaning.


Location 

This is the Three bolt climb that is left and slightly downhill from Still in Saigon and The Big Flush on the very left side of the Thin Air face.This is the Worm Drive Buttress.


Protection 

Three draws(or two draws and a locker) to a two bolt anchor with rings.



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By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Jun 8, 2012

Very fun route....very old school at the same time. A locker on the first bolt and steady nerves up to the second will see you through. Cleaning and replacing the old bolts is on the list for this summer. Very close to a three star, but it is a bit short and thwarts some of the best. Once the second pitch is a go, I may change my rating to 3 stars...it really is a fun route!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 10, 2012

isnt left up hill from still in saigon?

By jim.dangle
Jul 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This climb is so far left that it is downhill and almost behind the Saigons on a little Buttress that sticks out. The second clip is indeed a little hair-raising but I don't think it is so bad. Because of the position on a steep slope and due to a large tree at the bottom an alert belayer might be able to get a little dynamic and creative should the leader blow it (good luck with that). The route seems to finish out left around the arete. Short but fun. Good to do while waiting for one of the longer climbs. Bring on the second pitch!

What is the bolted route to the left of this one?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 13, 2013

The bolted route to the left is probably True Lies 12b