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The Titan
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Finger of Fate 
Gimp Warfare T 
jade gate T 
Sundevil Chimney 
World's End 

World's End 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A4 X

   
Type:  Aid, Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3-4 [details]
FA: Jim Beyer (solo) 1987
Page Views: 5,817
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 15, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Top of pitch 2

Description 

This fantastic nailing route is on the South Face of the Titan 50 or so feet to the right of the Sundevil Chimney.

P1- This pitch is steep and intimidating. It looks much harder than it is. Just a steep thin crack with lots of pretty good stopper placements. Climb to a hanging belay. (A2) P2- Climb up shallow corners and cracks. Traverse left to a right facing corner. When the corner switches to left facing, traverse left again via hooks and some thin pins to a good three bolt belay. (A3+)

P3- Nail a thin crack to a hook move left. Another thin seam leads to a drilled hook hole where you move left again into another thin crack. Climb that to reach a good bolt and then a 1/4" bolt. A shallow right facing dihedral leads to bolts which move left crossing an arete. Then more bolts and a short section of nailing take you to another three bolt anchor at a small stance. (A4)

P4- Some free climbing and bolts leads you to another thin crack at the top of the arete. Climb the crack via TCU's and small cams to an A2 crack. Climb the crack passing a few bolts to a hanging belay at a bolt and fixed pin. (A3)

P5- Climb an A2 thin crack passing some bolts and a small roof to more thin cracks and some bolt ladders to some broken, slopey groveling on a sandy ramp. There are three bolts here for a belay, but keep going. Climb 5.7 with one A0 move on a bolt to reach the good bivy ledge on the Sundevil chimney route.

P6,7- Climb the last two pitches of the Sundevil Chimney to the Summit.

Descent- Rappel either the Sundevil Chimney, or the standard Finger of Fate rappel route.

This, along with Death of American Democracy and Deadmans Party is one of the best routes in the Fishers. Pitch three has many aluminum head placements and is super dicey.

Protection 

15 beaks, 15 blades, 15 lost arrows, 3 each angle to 2". many hooks, 20 aluminum heads, 10 keyhole hangers, 2 sets of stoppers (for 1st pitch) leeper cam hooks, 1 set of cams from tiny to #4 camalot.


Photos of World's End Slideshow Add Photo
STEEP!
STEEP!
Fixed mank pulled from route...with just my finger...
Fixed mank pulled from route...with just my finger...
Cleaning pitch 2
Cleaning pitch 2
BETA PHOTO
The Titan
BETA PHOTO: The Titan
Looking down pitch 4
Looking down pitch 4
Pitch 2 crack
Pitch 2 crack
Sundevil bivy ledge top of pitch 5
Sundevil bivy ledge top of pitch 5
Higher on pitch 3
Higher on pitch 3
Crux pitch 3
Crux pitch 3

Comments on World's End Add Comment
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By mark55401
From: Minneapolis
Feb 27, 2012

I don't know. Anyone know when the route was last climbed?
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3-4 R

Just did this route with my buddy Paul. All belays are good and the best way down it to rap Sundevil. I will work on an updated rack when I get the chance.

Lots of trenched heads on this route just like it's neighbor Intifada.
I was able to bypass a ton of trenches as well as a couple drilled hooks with Peckers and those little Pika beaks. Placed about 6-7 heads on the whole route.

Killer line on great rock...really no mud at all.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Apr 4, 2012

awesome! nice tr.
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3-4 R

Some more info:

Pitch 1 is almost 190 feet long

Pitch 3 - I was able to skip both drilled hooks using #1 Peckers and those small Pika beaks (though the tips broke off of 3 when they were cleaned). I also skipped about 4 trenched heads with small kinda sketch Peckers. I think I places 4 heads on this pitch.

Pitch 5 - There is a ton of rope drag on this pitch...bring a bunch of long slings. Once you get the the anchor, step up, clip that bolt and work straight left into the Sundevil for about 15 feet till the bivy ledge (Sundevil).

Most, if not all of the bolts on this route are pretty good.

I think we cleaned most of the fixed mank (anchors, heads, tat).

Rap Sundevil as it's way easier and has good pulls.

There you go.

Jeremy
By mark55401
From: Minneapolis
Dec 29, 2012

thanks, Jeremy, super-helpful.