World at War
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Make a strange 1st move and crimp your way to a hand jam rest. make another equally hard deadpoint/dyno then setup for the crux, work out left on undercling deadpoint for a side pull and then make tenuous moves up the crimpy flake with the pump clock ticking. Make some final moves that go at 10+/11- but with pump feel like 5.13, grab the clipping jug way up right and clip those anchors...man that climb was hard.
The crux of this climb is very insecure and involves traversing on bad underclings with bad feet then deadpointing without letting your feet slip.
1st bolted climb right of Under the Milky Way (arete)
7 bolts to anchors
|By Greg Sudlow|
May 14, 2010
World at War is one of those great routes whose only crime is that it sits beside an aesthetically pleasing neighbor climb – in this case the beautiful arête Under the Milky Way (5.11d). As a consequence, World at War sees too little traffic for the quality climbing it packs in. So the next time you’re at Summersville, let the crowds wait for Milk Way, step a few feet to the right and take the short line to the top of World at War. Beware it is long and tough for its grade!
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 3, 2013
It really is a lot of work for this 5.11d redpoint. Full value to say the least.