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Workshop Orgy (upper Var. of Atlantis)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Inferno - Atlantis Area
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Atlantis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blue Alien (Mid Cliff). T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burning Down The House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cemetary Gates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cold Day in Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fiddler On The Roof (Mid Cliff) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heart Of Darkness (Mid Cliff) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hotter Than Hell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Your Face (Mid-Cliff Start, R of Upper Inferno) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Indian Summer (Lower Var. of Atlantis) T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Inferno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jacobs Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lost Souls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Surreal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tranquility T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unforgettable Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Workshop Orgy (upper Var. of Atlantis) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Steve Wooding, Dave McDermott, Skip Comstock, Jon Paulding, and Rich Petersen (1990) |
| Page Views: | 1,224 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | mister-midpines on Feb 18, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This is a difficult, wildly exposed alternative to the final pitch of Atlantis. (See p. 310 in Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.)
1. Climb the first three pitches of Atlantis.
2. From the third belay, in the large dihedral, face climb left to the highly exposed arete (1 bolt).
3. Climb directly up the arete (5.9) past a horizontal crack, and over the bulge (5.12a) to the top (2 bolts, 1 or 2 medium to small cams for horizontal crack).
The crux is immediately above the horizontal crack and is exceptionally well protected for a climb of this grade, with a clipped bolt above waist height.
1. Climb the first three pitches of Atlantis.
2. From the third belay, in the large dihedral, face climb left to the highly exposed arete (1 bolt).
3. Climb directly up the arete (5.9) past a horizontal crack, and over the bulge (5.12a) to the top (2 bolts, 1 or 2 medium to small cams for horizontal crack).
The crux is immediately above the horizontal crack and is exceptionally well protected for a climb of this grade, with a clipped bolt above waist height.
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