Working routes on a fixed line

Question for the people:

You know how people like Tommy Caldwell set up fixed ropes and work pitches by themselves? What type of device do they typically use for that?

I would think a couple of petzl traxion's would work but I thought maybe repeatedly falling would damage the rope?

Thanks for any ideas.

Oh, and this isn't a sarcastic question. My username can be misleading sometimes.

Do a search for top-rope solo. Lots of stuff in the forums and even on the petzl site.

Yeah I've read about top rope soloing and seen the illustrations that Petzl has, I just always did it on easy routes, where it was unlikely that I would fall but that if I did I would be safe. I had just assumed that repeatedly falling on a traxion would damage the rope. False? Ok to project on top rope solo using traxions?

a microcender or other cammed ascender would likely be easier on the rope than a toothed ascender. if the route is very steep, you may consider using a gri/eddy or maybe the CAMP Matik (I'm not sure what CAMP's opinion on using the Matik for TR soloing is, but if it's acceptable it would likely be easier on your rope than a gri/eddy) for the ease of lowering.

If you want to stick with a mini/micro trax, "taking" would be easier on your rope than falling, so if you foresee a fall, it would be wise to at least take in all the slack, if not sit on the rope to prevent a fall. adding weight to the bottom of the rope and/or using a chest harness/bungee cord to keep the device up-right can help with slack

If you rig it properly (per Petzl's instructions) a Basic ascender will never have any slack. Traxions are typically "dragged behind" the climber on a short sling and that creates ever-present slack. That's unacceptable in my book.

I've probably logged 100 or more falls on my toothed (gasp!) Petzl Basic and it doesn't harm the rope. I think most folks are under the mistaken impression that the device slides down a bit before it grabs, and that this will cause damage. But it doesn't move down, not even a fraction of a mm. Fantastic TR self belay IME/IMO.

One minor problem - Petzl has redesigned the Basic and no longer recommend it for self belay. So you have to find one of the old ones. Expect to pay $40 or so. Then tie a chest harness from some old webbing and you're good to go.

Buddy of mine uses a single fixed static line with a micro traxion clipped into belay loop and chest harness using cordelette-(too keep tension), he slings his chest in a way to have cordelette each side of the biner w the traxion to keep it from turning horizontally, and then uses a back up traxion below, only on the belay loop.
He has modified his traxions with a file so they can not be pushed into the "open" position. then back ups every couple feet with knots clipped to biner.
When you come off the rock, you don't go anywhere, because with the static, there's no rope stretch, you take your hands off the wall, and you literally don't move down at all.
Wanna be extra safe about that, get a rated static line.

Oh yeah, and having a bit of extra line at the bottom coiled and tied so it is hanging should weight the line well enough to pull it through the traxion.

The two downsides I see to this system, are:
1. the single rope
2. using exact same device as a back up.
I think petzl says the micro has a 91% efficiency rate. Although not being able to accidently open it up (due to the mod), I think would improve this.

He has top rope solo'd like this for quite a while and is probably the safest climber I know. Rope guards, obviously, if there's an edge.

On petzl's site they show top rope solo w two lines, two different anchors, and two different kinds of devices.

Good luck on your projects!

Gunkiemike wrote: One minor problem - Petzl has redesigned the Basic and no longer recommend it for self belay. So you have to find one of the old ones. Expect to pay $40 or so. Then tie a chest harness from some old webbing and you're good to go.

Petzl shunt and a camp lift... no teeth

If I recall correctly, I believe Tommy and Kevin's setup was a grigri backed up by a mini traxion. You don't have to worry about the teeth harming the rope because the grigri does all the work, the mini is just there for backup.