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Working For Peanuts 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Phil Bard, Alan Bartlett, 1984
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Dec 22, 2010

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Description 

Impressive and super dangerous old route over roofs and up a black streak.

Since the first pitch only had 2 pieces of pro for the first 90' (including 40' of overhang/overlap climbing), the first a missing piton, there is probably no way to repeat the lead of this route without bringing hammer and thin pins. The pro bolt and anchor bolts have been replaced.


Location 

Start by the big three-trunked tree, and climb up and left for 50+ feet, slamming a piton in somewhere. Then work up to the bolt, and climb a long ways above it over roofs and then up a thin black streak to a 2-bolt belay. Some thin pro is available in horizontal cracks above the roofs.

Another pitch or two of easy climbing leads to the top.


Protection 

missing piton, one bolt, a few thin cams for the top



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