The business of this route is the last 30'. The route is probably best done in one pitch. If you are tall or good with slab, this should feel soft for 10a. This is a good climb if you are in the area or are trying to break into the 5.10's. This climb is light-year's easier than What's Up Doc.
Begin the same as Peek-a-boo, at the landing above Jim Dandy. Start to the left of the base of a gully at some right facing flakes. Follow this to a large ledge with many horizontals at about 100'. Step left to a crack, belay here or continue up. Follow the crack to its end and clip two bolts through a steep slab section (crux). Make a short run to the top using sloper rails.
Locate Jim Dandy, then scramble up and left to another landing at a large wide gully. The bolts were the most noticeable shiny ones to the left of the wide gully. The bolts covered in lichen are for Aphid in My Pants.
Long runners, single rack, TCU's-#3 Camalot, tri-cams. Double ropes are needed for the rappel off of ring anchors.
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Apr 10, 2012
Excellent Route! Wandered onto this thing years ago when I was starting off trad leading and mistook it for "Cave Route", biggest little mistake of my life! Went back this weekend and actually lead it without wee'ing myself! Its a fantastic route that takes super pro, mostly smaller stuff C3's and what not. The crux up high is protected by two new bolts and then its smooth sailing to the anchors!
It was slightly difficult to find the route but if you start off at the same ledge as Pick A Boo and climb directly up to the mossy ledge (60-70 feet above the deck) there is a nice new bolted belay station. From there you can either go directly up while slightly trending right until you find the first bolt or you can traverse super right, nearly onto Pickaboo, and climb up to the bolt from there. Basically if you look up from the belay and see that large boulder above the end of the route its two feet to the right of that boulder!
Gnarly Fun Stuff!!
Sep 10, 2012
Anyone know what the route to the left of Wooly Aphid is? I accidently got on this line and thought it was better than Wooly Aphid! I started at rap rings ~50 ft above ground level and move up a face, past an old bolt with a d-link and up a right leaning crack. Not in the guidebook.