Woolly Clam Taco
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Start the same as Easter Time Too, with hands 10 feet up traverse left to the small 3 foot high left facing corner capped by a pebble covered overhang, follow the crack up and right to another small left facing corner, go up passing a frisbee-sized area of orange rock, move up and left to a ledge before traversing left to the Day Tripper oak tree rap station.
Same as Easter Time Too.
I toproped the route belayed from a rope set up on the belay tree for Day Tripper with a substantial directional anchor set up 20 feet right of the belay tree. The gear looks difficult to place and consists largely of micro nuts with a few pebbly horizontals available for more substantial gear. This looks like a scary lead with little protection available to prevent ground fall until after climbing through 15 feet of 5.9 territory.
|Comments on Woolly Clam Taco
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Feb 11, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R
I led this a while back and have not tried to repeat it. There's a good yellow alien at your feet for the first hard move, then 20 or so feet of difficult climbing "protected" some really manky c3s in a shallow flare and very small brassies.
|By David Stowe|
Feb 20, 2012
Its been a few years, but I remember being pretty happy with the brassies that I got in on this. There were 3 or 4 of them along the way, all pretty good.
May 6, 2013
Is this a different climb from "Earth Girls Are Easy" in Todd Swain's guide? From description seems to be the same except that Swain has you traverse to the Eastertime anchors at the top.