Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Woodchuck Ledge

Select Area...
Caterpillar Wall, The 
Diamond Wall, The 
Gravity Wall, The 
Jurassic Wall, The 
Main Cliff, The 
Playground, The 
Upper Tier, The 
Zonkers Wall, The 

Woodchuck Ledge  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 13,093
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: nhclimber on Apr 27, 2009
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
BETA PHOTO: Parking and trail into Woodchuck

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Awesome cliff with climbs of all grades. South facing and you'll probrably be alone. Screaming Yellow Zonkers is here, that alone should make it a destination.

Getting There 

From Conway, drive Passaconaway road (west, towards the Albany covered bridge) till you see the cliff on the right. Drive around the bend till you see a pull off on right with 3 stones guarding the trail and a Forest Service "No camping..." sign. Hike up the old logging trail about 20 minutes and you will reach the far left side of the cliff.

Coming from the Kanc, the pull-off is about 2.6 miles down Passaconaway Rd. from the Albany Covered Bridge, on your left.

Work your way right for the various walls in order: Gravity, Jurassic, Zonkers (left up a gully a little from the Caterpillar), Caterpillar, The Diamond, and the Main Wall. The Playground is reached by taking the gully past Zonkers and continuing to scramble up and left a few minutes. The upper Tier is the left side of the Main Wall, above the Caterpillar and Diamond.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.5 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Woodchuck Ledge:
Roger's Spire   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   The Caterpillar Wall
Firebird   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 125'   The Zonkers Wall
Queen of Hearts   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Zonkers Wall
Ace of Spades   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Zonkers Wall
Diamond Edge   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Diamond Wall
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Zonkers Wall
Steamroller   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Caterpillar Wall
Zonked Out   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad   The Zonkers Wall
Browse More Classics in Woodchuck Ledge

Featured Route For Woodchuck Ledge
Jon on Zonkers....guy!

Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NH : Kancamagus Crags : ... : The Zonkers Wall
This is one of the best pitches in the northeast! Don't follow the crowds. Come climb this materpiece! Spectacular overhanging finger crack climbing to pumpy and technical crux. Jaw dropping!Some history from the Ed Webster guidebook: "Joe Cote and Bruce Kumph aided the first ascent of the route on June 15, 1975. The first free ascent was a significant climb of the times when it was done by Jim Dunn in October of 1975." Trust me, onsighting this crack is gonna feel significant in 2024....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Woodchuck Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Sam working the mission
Sam working the mission
John Howard on Firebird 5.7, a route at Woodchuck just around the corner to the left of Ace of Spades, Zonked Out and Screaming Yellow Zonkers. <br />The picture is a little blurry as it is two stitched together.
BETA PHOTO: John Howard on Firebird 5.7, a route at Woodchuck ...
The pull-off parking for Woodchuck
The pull-off parking for Woodchuck

Comments on Woodchuck Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Apr 15, 2010
The parking is on the left 2.5 miles east of the Albany Covered Bridge. Coming from the other way on Passaconway Rd. the pullout is half a mile past the camping area. Park at a sign saying "Camping and fires prohibited along this road, except at capmsites," on one side, and "For a healthy environment, keep our forest green," on the other. Follow the old logging road, eventually you will see a cairn and red blazes...you have arrived!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 1, 2011
This is a crag that could really use a good map showing the various walls and approaches. It is a fairly complicated cliff.

I've only visited this cliff once, but liked it. The jumbled boulder scree field below seemed like a mini version of Cannon's (much smaller, not heinous), which gave it a little alpine feeling. There was also more rock than I expected. My impression was of a good crag in a great setting. It looked to me like most of the cliff could use some TLC, upgrading old anchors and some scrubbing, but worthy of it. Be prepared for old school protection and loose rock on some of the routes. It looked to me like plenty of potential for new routing if you are in to that and willing do the work.
By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Sep 7, 2011
I agree Mark. There is a lot of climbing here. With some TLC you could spend the day at Woodchuck and crush all or many of the routes for a really rad circuit.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 7, 2011
You guys should try Steamroller- way good
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 14, 2012
I broke this cliff into areas and sorted the routes. If anyone feels up to writing good descriptions and directions to some or all of the walls, please let me know and I can turn them over to you. Otherwise I will work on them slowly as I get to know them better.
By wonderwoman
Jun 16, 2014
Main Cliff is closed due to falcon nesting through 8/1/14. There appears to be a falcon nest on the ledge of Diamond Edge.