BETA PHOTO: Purple: God's Own Hold (V2) Green: The Easy Way Ou...
Small 1.55 acre wooded area with at least 3 large, free standing (maybe more) trap rock boulders.
Park Lane in Woodbridge CT, off of route 243 (Fountain Street coming from New Haven). The first trail head is on the right about a half mile down Park Lane. There is also another entrance right on Fountain Street (directly after the Route 15 bridge), but it is harder to find reasonable parking.
Sit start on pinches on the bottom left corner of the big, overhung face. Traverse right following the line of slopers, crimps and sidepulls into Frankenstein's Lab and top out. Best line on the boulder. Pumpy start for a powerful, high finish. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CT
This area also has a smaller boulder (Rubix Cube) with an array of V0's and V1's. It is not anything special, but for a beginner climber it is a nice intro to climbing outdoors and a good warm up pit stop on the way to Franken. To get there, you take the trail on the right side of the road (same as for Frankenrock) and keep left whenever you can and eventually you will reach the power line corridor consisting of mostly brush where you should come across the rock. It lies less than a quarter mile north of Frankenrock. *poison ivy alert around Rubix Cube*
Checked this spot out yesterday. Great place and has a lot of potential for creating new lines. Rubix cube has a lot of potential for short hard routes as well. Franken is great though. Def check it out. Thanks for the loc beta Chris...
First a comment about the area - not really a climbing destination as it's very small but for those of us who live close (I'm exactly 11 minutes away car+walking) it's a super little place to grab some quick outdoor climbing. The woods is beautiful, the rock is nice (though a bit sharp) and the quality of lines is really pretty decent with a good range of difficulty.
This report has some very good details & decent photos of the area but it seems to be missing a few relevant problems. I'll try to get some photos and beta put up. Looking at the main face of Frankenrock there are a couple problems around the left side and the back corner. On the left side is a very short couple-move topout problem that comes up over a bulge and tops out to a slab. V-easy but a bit interesting and a good warmup.
In between that problem and the start of God's Own Hold is a *heinous* sit-start. A large undercling with good feet leads straight up with a big move to bad slopers. there's a poor but evident line of slopers along the lip that could probably be chained into God's Own Hold or even all the way around the corner to Frankenstein's Lab. I'm assuming it's a project, and definitely looks V-hard. [edit - I've been playing on this lately and it's not as hard as I once thought. I've chained most of it together and it probably goes around V6/7 if you finish on God's Own Hold, maybe more like V8/9 if you connect it to Frankenstein's Lab - mainly due to length]
The back corner of the boulder has about a three-move sit-start on two good underclings to a left-hand sidepull and then a large rail pinch to top-out. V-easy and short but the first couple moves are cool
Oh my goodness, I can't believe this little area is in here. I grew up in the woods adjacent to these boulders and did many of the easier lines in the mid 1970s. If you poke around you will find other boulders---I remember at least six. And yes, this is a TINY area, but the woods are beautiful and it's super quiet. From the summit of the biggest boulder I used to be hear my mom calling me in for supper.