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Aladdin's Lamp 
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Wonderwall 


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Submitted By: red armada on Jan 6, 2011

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Sam getting her second lead on Paint Your Wagon.

Description 

A sprawling complex cliff under a long ridge, with a mix of crimpy slabs and crimpy steeper walls. The quality varies wildly from forgettable short crap to long sustained classics. Most are bolted but there are some legacy multi-pitch trad routes (rarely climbed). The environment is very aesthetic: sand dunes lap against the screes under the cliff giving a proper desert feel.

The cliff is described in detail in "UAE Rock Climbing" (2009) www.cordee.co.uk/cca395.php



Getting There 

The cliff is just inside Oman east of the UAE city of Al Ain. Confusingly it is on the UAE side of the Oman border check point (so is essentially in "no-mans-land"). The approach drive is complicated - see the guidebook. Passports are needed to get through the UAE border post at Hili in Buraimi. As at early 2011, people without UAE residential visas will likely find their passport stamped with an exit stamp ... make sure you can get an entry stamp when you come back.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wonderwall:
Paint Your Wagon   5.6     Sport, 50 feet   Spaghetti Western
Hang Em High   5.9     Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet   Spaghetti Western
Zoot Allures   5.11a     Sport, 90 feet   Upper Central Wall
Uruk-Hai Overhang   5.11a     Sport, 60 feet   Mordor
Exile   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 180 feet   Central Wall
Browse More Classics in Wonderwall

Featured Route For Wonderwall
Rapping down to the beginning of the climb

Hang Em High 5.9  International : Asia : ... : Spaghetti Western
Start at the bolts next to the alcove. Steady moderate climbing up through both pitches....[more]   Browse More Classics in International


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By ClimbFit
From: Dubai,
Oct 22, 2012