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Just right of Maneater, this route starts by stepping off boulder and climbing way up to first bolt. Stick clip recommended (this is Red Rocks and holds break) for first bolt. Continue straight up edges and thru two large huecos to crux just below anchor.
right of Maneater
Eric about to finish up Wonderstuff
Dec 7, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
I broke off a few holds in working the route. One has some significance but probably does not change the grade. At the top a good crimp on right lets you grab a sidepull with the left before reaching up to the anchors. A few bits pulled off that sidepull and I then decided to skip it for a higher intermediate before grabbing the finish jug. Good route, big moves and bouldery.
|By peachy spohn|
Jan 16, 2010
I dont think the grade was affected by those broken holds...I was never on it before but the grade felt good.