Wonderstuff 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Louie Anderson, 2006 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 8, 2007 |
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Negotiating the crux on Wonderstuff.
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Do not drive into the Quarry. You will be ticketed $150 for trespassing. Climbing access is open, just park on the street.
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Description Climb a vertical to bulging face just left of the drill marks and then up into a clean, right-facing corner. Deft footwork and a bit of liebacking will see you through to the exit moves which lead to anchors on a sloping ledge.
A decent route that's yet another good warm-up for this area packed with quality routes.
Location Located about 50' left of Tangerine Dream, a prominent orange streak of rock in the area, 35' right of Whammy and just left of an obvious section of drilled rock.
Protection 7 bolts, chain anchors
Chris climbing Wonderstuff and contemplating tacos...
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Unknown climber 11-3-12
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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Sep 21, 2007
rating: 5.10c
| Watch out for the loose undercling at about 1/3 height. It is possible to pass the hold with no increase in difficulty.
A nice sustained route for the grade. |
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Jun 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b
| A guy told me this was 5.9... He must have been thinking of a different route. I donno, I think this one is 10a/b maybe. It's definitely not 10c. |
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.10c
| If I'm not mistaken, that undercling is now gone. There's a mark in chalk that reads 'Bad X' and underneath that, the word 'Fine' is written, perhaps where the flake used to be. Anyway, this climb was a gem. The layback about halfway up is totally pure and great fun. It's a pity it's not longer, but I definitely recommend it as a warmup! |
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Nov 10, 2010
| This is one of my favorite routes at the Quarry. Too bad it's not as long as Trundle Trophy or Tangerine Dream, but it's still a good warm-up route. |
By johnnydanger
From: California
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| If you go right and up the jugs of the arete it makes the climb a bit softer. If you go straight up and into the book its going to be a solid climb at the grade. Negotiating the crack/dihedral is for sure a battle of the pump. I got a lucky onsight, but can for sure see where others will get stuck. Have fun. |
By Rob M
Feb 25, 2012
| Pretty fun route... I'd give it a low 10c... don't get suckered to the right when you get the the short dihedral near the top... |
By Benjamin Quinones
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.10c
| Does anybody know what the 2nd pitch that goes left of the anchors is rated/named? is it Maximizer? |
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