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Torture Machine Area
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Unsorted Routes:

Wonderstuff 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2006
Page Views: 2,436
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Negotiating the crux on Wonderstuff.
Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb a vertical to bulging face just left of the drill marks and then up into a clean, right-facing corner. Deft footwork and a bit of liebacking will see you through to the exit moves which lead to anchors on a sloping ledge.

A decent route that's yet another good warm-up for this area packed with quality routes.


Location 

Located about 50' left of Tangerine Dream, a prominent orange streak of rock in the area, 35' right of Whammy and just left of an obvious section of drilled rock.


Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors



Photos of Wonderstuff Slideshow Add Photo
Chris climbing Wonderstuff and contemplating tacos at TJ's.
Chris climbing Wonderstuff and contemplating tacos...
Unknown climber 11-3-12
Unknown climber 11-3-12
Comments on Wonderstuff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Sep 21, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Watch out for the loose undercling at about 1/3 height. It is possible to pass the hold with no increase in difficulty.

A nice sustained route for the grade.

By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Jun 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

A guy told me this was 5.9... He must have been thinking of a different route. I donno, I think this one is 10a/b maybe. It's definitely not 10c.

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

If I'm not mistaken, that undercling is now gone. There's a mark in chalk that reads 'Bad X' and underneath that, the word 'Fine' is written, perhaps where the flake used to be. Anyway, this climb was a gem. The layback about halfway up is totally pure and great fun. It's a pity it's not longer, but I definitely recommend it as a warmup!

By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Nov 10, 2010

This is one of my favorite routes at the Quarry. Too bad it's not as long as Trundle Trophy or Tangerine Dream, but it's still a good warm-up route.

By johnnydanger
From: California
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

If you go right and up the jugs of the arete it makes the climb a bit softer. If you go straight up and into the book its going to be a solid climb at the grade. Negotiating the crack/dihedral is for sure a battle of the pump. I got a lucky onsight, but can for sure see where others will get stuck. Have fun.

By Rob M
From: Fullerton, ca
Feb 25, 2012

Pretty fun route... I'd give it a low 10c... don't get suckered to the right when you get the the short dihedral near the top...

By Benjamin Quinones
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Does anybody know what the 2nd pitch that goes left of the anchors is rated/named? is it Maximizer?

By Clif Clap
2 days ago

Fun route with good moves. Sustained for the grade. Careful about some loose rock in the crack when you get to the dihedral.