This route is a tribute to Loran Smith. Loran cleaned the route but was unable to climb it before moving west to Colorado. The route was set up by Garlough and Corbett the following day and climbed.
Loran spent his early years taking chances and climbing the dirty walls of Longstack on nuts and hexes. His love for the cliff was reignited in 2010 and he added many great lines at Longstack. He will be greatly missed by all the members of the Chinos Mountain Club.
This route starts to the left of Gentle Violence.
P1: Climb the short unprotected slab to a ledge (bolt). Follow flakes to a overlap (bolt) and pull over on the left edge to a short slab (bolt). Pull the small roof on big holds and continue up right of the pine tree to another small roof (bolt). Fire the crux on thin holds and continue straight up to a tree ledge with a three bolt anchor. 100'
P2: Climb straight up off the anchor on easy terrain to the trees on top. 50'
P2 Variation: Move right from the anchor and follow a clean streak to the top. 50'
Between Weston's Syrup and Gentle Violence
Bolts, standard rack, 3 bolt anchor
Jon after the first crux
Photo by Jay
Jonathan Garlough on the opening moves
Photo by Ja...
Jon on the route
Photo by Jay