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Pixie Corner
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Wonderland 

Wonderland 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: Alpine Carl on Jun 18, 2007
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the ledge, traverse left and up along cracks and seams, soaking in the exposure, and of course, not screwing your second. This route is really fun to link from below by by climbing up from Mosquito or S&M's, Phlegmish Dance, and Jabberwocky.


Location 

Walk past Pixie Corner dihedrals to a small ledge above the Laughing Crack/Zombie Roof wall. Traverse left, not up: that thin crack is called White Rabbit (.10ish).


Protection 

Gear to 3 inches, TCU's, and a few runners for rope drag. There are fixed anchors at the top.



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By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This pitch is fucking rad. Do it. Save some big gear for the end, and bring a sling or two for rope drag. Excellent though, one of the best lines I did all summer.

This is the link to the other Wonderland page from the Wall Area www.mountainproject.com/v/international/canada/british_colum>>> (I guess because it's part of the Smoke Bluff Connection?)

By Mark van Eijk
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Agreed, a total blast and worthy outing. The final traversing moves will probably feel more tenuous for climbers with shorter legs. Saving one or two hand-sized pieces for this section will definitely take some of the sting out for the follower (#3 camalot is ideal but 2 or 4 will work) If you decide to protect the short and easy vertical crack at the end, use generous runners or be prepared for horrific rope drag. Thrilling exposure and outstanding moves at the grade, do it!

By Adrian Lazar
Jul 9, 2012

The anchors at the top were either removed or I couldn't find them ... It's easy to build a gear or tree anchor.