The very long time coming third ascent of Leavitt'...
The Wonderland of Rocks (aka The Wanderland) is well named due to the mind boggling amount of rock there as well as the complex topography. If you're tired of waiting in line for another route or simply wish to escape the scene this is the place to seek out.
The Wonderland of Rocks is located just north and east of the Barker Dam Area. Refer to the individual crag pages for more detailed approach information.
Andrew Gram adds: Head right at Echo Rock as if going to Barker Dam. Instead of pulling in to the Barker Dam trailhead, turn right onto a dirt road going to the Desert Queen Mine. Turn left onto another dirt road and there is a small parking area with an outhouse. It is also a short hike from Barker Dam through a wash to get to the same point.
A very exciting and fun route and one of the best face climbs anywhere. Bring gear for the crack on the third pitch. There are just enough bolts to make the climbing sane, but a fall in a number of places could be bad news. Make sure both leader and follower are solid 5.10 climbers as the traverse at the end of pitch one is serious for both. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are easily linked and in fact recommended. The route starts from atop a large boulder on the left side of the northeast face of the...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Can anyone tell me the best way (or a way) to get to the Lost in the Wonderland Slab? I made it to Bighorn Dome and took a left along Boulder Canyon thinking that I could hit the slab from the west. Not such a good idea for those of you considering it.
There are two main ways to get to the Lost In The Wonderland Slab, but going through the aptly named Boulder Canyon is not one of them...unless you happen to be a Bighorn Sheep.
The first approach is to cut right past the Freak Brothers Dome (heading east), past the north side of the Pea Brain and Red Obelisk until you enter a large open valley. Continue heading east/northeast (you'll be facing the distant flanks of Queen Mtn.) along the Wonderland Wash, passing the entrance to Boulder Canyon, past a huge boulder with a Leavitt project on your left until you have to make your way through some rocks and join another wash coming in from the south. The wash turns left and heads northeast here (along the base of Queen Mtn.), and soon you'll see the Don Genaro Cliffs and Don Genaro Boulder on your right. Make a left (heading west) when you reach the Cornerstone and follow a major wash past The Poodle Smasher until the Lost In The Wonderland Slab comes into view on your left. Plan on at least a solid hour of hiking for the approach.
Another approach is to head north in the Wonderland Valley past the Freak Brothers Dome. Continue along the wash in a northerly direction past the Duckwaddle Domes, Gumby Dome, and Diarrhea Dome (with the prominent Owl Pinnacle atop it). Once past the turnoff for Diarrhea Dome/Bighorn Mating Grotto continue on past the Mystic Cove, scramble over a rough section and hit a wash heading east. Follow this until the Lost In The Wonderland Slab comes into view on your right. Again, plan on at least an hour of solid hiking to reach this point.
It's possible combine the two and make a giant loop hike, which will give you a grand tour of the southern Wonderland and blow your mind with the scenic beauty, solitude and amazing amount of rock in the area. Perfect for those cold, windy days when it's too cold to climb.
I finally made it out to the Wonderland Slab and was dissapointed to see that Desert Delierium is dangerously runout with only one bolt (that I could see) between the ground and the left traversing roof. That bolt had webbing slings on it which lead me to believe that things get desparate up there. I'm sure a harder climber wouldn't hesitate.
If you're heading into Wonderland Valley, the trail into the wonderland starts right behind Uncle Willie's Health Food Store. You simply take the trail toward Wall Street Mill (doesn't matter which parking area you use). Just a short distance past the unpaved parking area with an outhouse you'll see a wide trail heading north which is sort of blocked by park service-placed gargoyles. Take this trail to the readily visible ruins called Uncle Willie's Health Food Store.
Just to the east (left) of the ruins is a trail that drops into a wash that you can follow (on the trail) to the various formations, or just scramble around. There's a lot of fun stuff to do in here.